THE  JOURNAL  OF 

MARTHA  PINTARD  BAYARD 


THE  JOURNAL 

OF 

MARTHA  PINTARD  BAYARD 

i* 

LONDON,  1794-1797 


EDITED  BY 

S.  BAYARD  DOD 


NEW-YORK 

DODD,  MEAD  &  COMPANY 
1894 


era  7-5 

13  38/9 JJ 


Copyright,  1894,  by 
DODD,  MEAD  &  COMPANY. 


PRESSWOKK  BY  JOHN  WILSON  AND  SON,  CAMBRIDGE. 


is  a  <£0pg  of  tfje  JFtrst  lEtJtttott  of  tfje 
Journal  of  JHartija  pintarU  ISagarU. 


: 


PREFACE 

MARTHA  PINTARD  BAYARD,  the  writer  ot'  tffis 
journal,  was  the  daughter  of  Lewis  Pintard, 
of  New  York,  whose  father,  a  French  Hugue- 
not, emigrated  from  France  some  years  pre- 
vious to  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes. 

General  Washington,  in  a  letter  to  Lieuten- 
ant-General  Howe,  the  British  Commander-in- 
Chief,  says  : 

* '  HEADQUARTERS,  MORRISTOWN, 
"Jan.  20,  1777. 

"Sir:  I  take  the  liberty  to  propose  the  es- 
tablishment of  an  officer  to  reside  in  New 
York,  under  parole, — to  transmit  no  intelligence 
but  what  belongs  to  his  office, —  whose  busi- 
ness it  shall  be  to  provide  such  necessaries  for 
such  prisoners  as  fall  into  your  hands.  Per- 
haps the  establishment  of  such  an  officer  with 
proper  credit  may  put  a  stop  to  the  many 
complaints  which  I  am  daily  under  the  neces- 
sity of  hearing,  some  of  them  probably  without 
foundation  and  others  from  the  want  of  many 

1*  5 


PREFACE 


things  you  are   not  obliged   to  furnish  the 
prisoners. 

' '  The  gentleman  whom  I  would  beg  leave  to 
•recommend  as  a  proper  agent  is  Mr.  Lewis 
Fintard,  the  bearer,  a  person  well  known  in 
New  Yoi'k  and  of  long  established  reputation 
4s  a  considerable  merchant." 

Mrs.  Bayard  was  the  wife  of  Samuel  Bayard, 
and  he  too  was  of  Huguenot  descent.  He 
was  the  son  of  Colonel  John  Bayard,  who  was 
prominent  in  Pennsylvania  during  the  Revolu- 
tionary War.  The  Pennsylvania  Legislature 
in  1775-76  were  not  in  favour  of  indepen- 
dence, but  the  people  were  resolved  upon  it. 

"On  the  twenty-fourth  of  May,  a  town- 
meeting  of  more  than  four  thousand  men  was 
held  in  the  State-House  yard,  to  confront  the 
instruction  of  the  assembly  against  indepen- 
dence, with  the  vote  of  the  Continental  Con- 
gress, against  *  oaths  of  allegiance,  and  the 
exercise  of  any  kind  of  authority  under 
the  Crown. '  It  was  called  to  order  by  John 
Bayard,  chairman  of  the  inspection  committee 
for  the  county  of  Philadelphia ;  a  patriot  of 
singular  purity  of  character  and  disinterested- 
ness, personally  brave,  pensive,  earnest  and 
devout"! 

1  Bancroft,  Vol.  Ill,  p.  385. 


PREFACE 


When  military  preparation  became  neces- 
sary, a  battalion  of  cavalry  was  organized,  and 
John  Bayard  was  commissioned  as  its  colonel, 
and  held  the  command  during  the  war. 

His  son,  Samuel  Bayard,  was  born  in  Phila- 
delphia in  1767,  graduated  at  Princeton  Col- 
lege in  1784,  and  studied  law  with  William 
Bradford,  afterward  Attorney-General  of  the 
"United  States  under  Washington. 

After  the  ratification  of  the  treaty  nego- 
tiated by  John  Jay  with  the  British  Govern- 
ment, he  was  appointed  by  Washington  agent 
of  the  United  States  to  prosecute,  in  the 
British  Admiralty  courts,  the  claims  of  Amer- 
ican citizens,  as  provided  for  in  the  Jay  treaty. 

The  result  of  his  mission  was  so  successful 
that  the  sum  of  "  §10,345,000  was  recovered 
from  the  British  Government  for  losses  sus- 
tained by  Americans  from  illegal  and  un- 
authorized captures  of  their  ships  on  the  high 
seas  by  English  cruisers." 

At  the  time  of  his  appointment  to  this 
responsible  and  delicate  mission,  Mr.  Bayard 


8  PREFACE 


was  twenty-seven  years  of  age ;  his  wife  was 
two  years  his  junior ;  they  had  been  married 
four  years,  and  were  sent  on  this  mission  to 
those  whom  from  her  childhood  "she  had 
been  taught  to  regard  as  enemies." 

"To  have  known  Washington,  Franklin, 
Hamilton,  Jay,  and  John  Adams,  and  frequently 
to  have  seen  George  the  Third  and  his  cabinet 
ministers,  who  were  opposed  to  those  great 
men  in  the  Revolutionary  struggle ;  to  have 
been  well  acquainted  with  many  of  the  Amer- 
ican generals  engaged  in  that  conflict,  and 
with  their  antagonists  Lord  Cornwallis,  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  and  Col.  Tarleton:  to  have 
been  on  terms  of  intimacy  with  six  of  the 
signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence ; 
and  to  have  known  Lords  Eldon,  Mansfield 
and  Stowell,  Burke  and  Barre,  Fox  and  Pitt, 
Sheridan,  Wilberforce  and  Warren  Hastings,  is 
certainly  a  very  remarkable  record  for  a  young 
American  of  thirty."  l 

On  his  return  to  this  country,  Mr.  Bayard 
resided  for  a  few  years  in  New  York,  and  was 
appointed  by  Governor  Jay  presiding  judge  of 
the  Court  of  Common  Pleas  of  Westchester 
County. 

1  General  James  Grant  Wilson,  "  The  Bayards  in 
America  and  Judge  Bayard's  London  Diary." 


PREFACE  9 


On  his  removal  to  New  Jersey  in  1806,  he 
was  appointed  to  the  same  position  in  Somer- 
set County. 

He  was  one  of  the  founders  of  the  New 
York  Historical  Society,  and  with  his  kinsman, 
Elias  Boudinot,  one  of  the  founders  of  the 
American  Bible  Society,  and  its  first  vice- 
president. 

He  was  also  one  of  the  founders  of  the 
Theological  Seminary  at  Princeton,  and  a  trus- 
tee of  the  College  of  New  Jersey,  and  for  many 
years  a  delegate  to  the  General  Assembly  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church. 

He  was  a  constant  contributor  to  several 
religious  periodicals,  and  the  author  of  the 
following  books: 

"A  Funeral  Oration  on  General  Washing- 
ton," New  Brunswick,  1810;  "Digest  of 
American  Cases  on  the  Law  of  Evidence," 
Philadelphia,  1810;  "  Abstract  of  Laws  of  the 
United  States  which  relate  to  the  Duties  and 
Authority  of  Judges  of  Inferior  State  Courts 
and  Justices  of  the  Peace,"  New  York,  1834; 


IO  PREFACE 


"  Letters  on  the  Sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Sup- 
per," Philadelphia,  1825;  second  edition,  1840. 

The  first  entry  in  the  old  vellum-bound 
book  in  which  Mrs.  Bayard  wrote  her  journal 
is  dated  1794,  and  it  is  interesting  to  note  the 
touches  of  life  and  manners  as  seen  by  a  young 
American  woman  a  century  ago. 

Among  the  descendants  of  the  twin  brother 
of  Judge  Bayard's  father  four  have  occupied 
seats  in  the  United  States  Senate  almost  con- 
tinuously for  fourscore  years,  one  was  among 
the  signers  of  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  another  was 
Secretary  of  State  and  is  now  Ambassador  of 
the  United  States  at  the  Court  of  Saint  James. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF 
MARTHA   PINTARD  BAYARD 

November  9,  1794. 

jEVER  did  my  heart  experi- 
ence such  emotions  of  pain- 

ful  regret  as  on  this  day; 

when  torn  from  the  friends  I  loved 
with  so  much  fondness,  and  the 
Country  which  gave  me  birth,  how 
could  my  mind  find  any  relief  even 
in  the  anticipation  of  a  return.  More 
than  a  year  may  elapse  before  this 
happy  period,  and  Alas !  then  perhaps 


12  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

I  may  return,  but  not  to  the  embraces 
of  those  so  dear  to  me  now,  the  cruel 
hand  of  death  may  long  'ere  that  de- 
prive me  of  an  aged  and  affectionate 
Parent,  and  instead  of  the  warm  em- 
braces of  my  beloved  Aunts,  or  the 
tender  heart-felt  welcome  of  my  equal- 
ly loved  Cousin,  1  shall  be  met  with 
the  cool  reception  of  an  acquaintance, 
who  has  nought  but  tales  of  sorrow 
to  relate.  But  why,  oh  my  heart! 
dost  thou  so  distrust  the  goodness 
of  that  Providence,  who  has  in  so 
many  instances  disapointed  thy  fears ; 
are  not  the  lives  of  those  who  are  dear 
to  me  as  well  as  my  own  in  thine  all- 
wise  hands,  and  can'st  thou  not  do 
with  us  as  seemeth  to  thee  fit. 

Peace,  every  angry  passion  then, 
Let  each  rebellious  sigh 
Be  silent  at  his  sovereign  will, 
And  every  murmur  die. 


MARTHA   P1NTARD   BAYARD          13 

At  twelve  o'clock  on  Sunday  we  left 
Princeton^  accompanied  by  my  good 
Father,  Brother  Andrew,  and  Sally, 
Cousin  Lewis  Pintard,  and  John  Smith. 
We  dined  together  at  Chester  and 
strove  to  be  cheerful,  but  could  not; 
my  Dr  Papa's  exertions  were  very 
great,  and  I  behaved  very  well  till 
Lewis  Pintard,  who  I  believe  loves 
me  like  a  Sister,  burst  into  tears  and 
left  the  table;  this  was  too  much,  I 
was  obliged  to  rise  and  go  up  stairs. 
We  embarked  on  board  the  Adriana, 
at  four  in  the  afternoon ;  our  friends 
followed  us  to  the  beach  and  took 
their  leave.  Never  did  I  experience 
such  feelings  as  on  looking  at  that 
Shore  where  I  had  left  all  that  was 
dear  to  me  on  earth  but  my  Husband 
and  Child;  I  stayed  on  deck  till  I 
could  see  them  no  more,  and  then 
went  down  into  the  Cabin  and  gave 
a  free  vent  to  my  tears ;  this,  with  the 


14  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

affectionate  exertions  of  my  Dear  Mr. 
Bayard,  gave  me  some  relief;  I  began 
to  feel  reconciled  to  my  fate,  and  a 
firm  reliance  on  Providence.  Oh  may 
the  feelings  which  this  scene  has  ex- 
cited be  nourished  and  encreased,  and 
may  the  spirit  of  devotion  which  now 
fills  my  breast  be  ever  kept  alive  by 
constant  &  serious  reflection  on  a 
scene  so  peculiarly  adapted  to  im- 
press the  mind  with  inexpressible 
solemnity.  .  .  . 

We  found  the  Cabin  clean,  the 
passengers  cheerful,  and  the  Captain 
disposed  to  render  every  thing  agree- 
able ;  the  first  night  I  slept  very  well, 
and  rose  in  the  morning  with  rather 
better  spirits  than  I  had  in  the  even- 
ing; our  breakfast  was  good,  but  my 
appetite  had  left  me  entirely.  .  .  . 

Monday  morning.  This  day  we  had 
a  charming  little  breeze,  which  wafted 
us  on  our  way  in  a  rapid  but  steady 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          15 

course;  and  by  the  evening  I  felt  a 
degree  of  composure  I  was  before  a 
stranger  to,  and,  while  land  was  in 
sight,  I  had  no  fears,  but  was  anxious 
to  see  the  sea ;  in  the  evening  the  wind 
arose  and  blew  very  hard  all  night,  I 
slept  very  little  and  was  very  much 
frighten'd.  .  .  . 

Tuesday.  How  thankful  ought  we 
to  be  to  that  merciful  Providence  who 
saith  to  the  sea  "  thus  far  shalt  thou  go 
but  no  further ;  "after  the  stormy  dread- 
ful night  we  have  passed,  how  reviv- 
ing is  the  light  of  another  day.  A  day 
which  promises  so  much  for  us  ... 
it  is  very  clear  and  we  are  going  with 
a  pretty  breeze,  but  this  evening  the 
Pilot  is  to  leave  us  ...  six  o'clock ; 
he  has  taken  his  leave  and  we  can  but 
just  now  discover  the  light-house.  I 
could  not  refrain  from  tears  at  the 
last  glance  of  that  land  which  gave 
me  birth,  and  oh  how  different  shall 


1 6  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

I  feel  when  I  am  three  thousand  miles 
further  !  Alas  I  know  not  whether  I 
shall  ever  reach  it.  ... 

We  passed  the  evening  more  cheer- 
fully than  I  expected,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing found  ourselves  surrounded  by 
an  immense  ocean.  What  a  new 
scene  opened  to  my  view!  How  did 
it  fill  my  mind  with  the  most  awful 
and  sublime  reverence  to  the  Great 
Creator  of  all  things.  Who  could,  in 
contemplating  the  wonders  of  the 
great  deep,  doubt  for  a  moment  the 
existence  of  a  Deity ! 

Thursday  19.  A  very  stormy  day ;  I 
began  to  know  what  sea-sickness  was ; 
in  the  evening  the  wind  increased,  and 
blew  a  violent  gale  all  night.  I  was 
very  much  alarmed  and  began  to  re- 
pent not  leaving  Lewis  with  his  Grand 
Papa,  who,  in  case  of  my  death, 
would  have  been  a  consolation;  this 
night  I  really  thought  would  have 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          1 7 

been  my  last;  I  would  sometimes 
catch  a  moment's  sleep  and  awaken 
in  a  most  violent  fright,  call  on  Mr. 
Bayard,  my  head  aching  extremely;  I 
begg'd  for  a  little  camphorated  spirits. 
He  crept  almost  on  his  hands  and 
knees  to  get  it,  bath'd  my  face,  and, 
with  the  most  tender  solicitude,  hung 
over  my  bed.  "Resign  yourself  to 
Providence,  my  love,"  said  he,  "and 
all  will  yet  be  well."  This  was  my 
only  consolation  and  from  my  heart 
did  I  bless  those  friends  who  early 
taught  me  that  love  and  submission 
I  then  felt.  A  flood  of  tears  shed  on 
the  bosom  of  the  Husband,  for  whom 
I  could  so  freely  die,  relieved  me,  and, 
about  four  in  the  morning,  the  Cap- 
tain came  to  my  window  and  assured 
me  the  storm  was  abating.  I  was 
then  a  little  composed  and  so  much 
overcome  that  I  fell  asleep  and  sweetly 
lost  all  sense  of  my  danger  for  an 


1 8  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

hour  or  two;  and  oh  my  soul  what 
were  thy  feelings  on  awaking  to 
the  light  of  another  day!  Merciful 
Father,  said  I,  when  doth  gratitude 
glow  with  equal  strength  or  praise  as- 
cend to  thy  throne  with  higher  pleasure 
than  in  the  moment  of  unexpected 
deliverance  ?  Oh  may  I  never,  never 
forget  this  night. 

Sunday  morning.  This  is  the  most 
delightful  day  we  have  yet  had  —  a 
fair,  light  breeze  has  kept  the  vessel 
steady,  and  we  all  had  a  refreshing 
night's  rest  ...  for  the  first  time  I 
had  a  pretty  good  appetite  at  break- 
fast, &  sat  on  deck  the  greater  part  of 
the  day.  Mr.  Bayard  read  Fordice's 
Address  to  the  Deity.  I  never  enjoyed 
them  so  much  —  but  we  were  soon 
obliged  to  lay  them  one  side,  as  they 
all  said  reading  prayers  (as  they 
call'd  them)  would  certainly  bring 
a  bad  wind;  poor  superstitious  crea- 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          19 

tures!  We  gratified  them,  but  could 
not  be  denied  the  enjoyment  of  our 
own  reflections.  .  .  . 

Thursday.  All  day  unpleasant — I 
was  very  much  indisposed — could  not 
hold  my  head  up  ten  minutes  to- 
gether, lay  on  the  sopha  all  day. 

Towards  evening  the  storm  in- 
creased, and  at  tea  time  it  blew  vio- 
lently—  the  Captain  had  to  leave  the 
tea-table;  it  increased  till  ten,  and 
then  blew  a  perfect  hurricane, — we 
were  all  very  much  alarmed,  Mrs. 
Kirtland  went  to  her  berth,  and  good 
Mrs.  Edmonson  did  all  in  her  power 
to  keep  up  my  spirits,  by  telling  me 
that  was  nothing  to  weather  she  had 
seen,  but  all  would  not  do;  this  I 
saw,  she  disguised  her  feelings,  as 
well  as  Mr.  Bayard.  I  was  very 
much  overcome  by  my  fears,  and  had 
it  not  been  for  some  lavender  which 
I  took,  and  the  use  of  camphorated 


2O  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

spirits,  I  must  have  fainted.  At 
twelve,  through  the  kindness  of  Provi- 
dence, the  wind  abated,  and  we  all 
went  to  bed,  but  could  not  sleep  for 
the  amazing  motion  of  the  vessel. 
The  wind  continued  high  all  night, 
and,  in  the  morning,  1  was  told  we 
had  indeed  been  in  great  danger;  the 
Caboose  was  thrown  over,  and  the 
poor  cook  very  much  hurt,  the  dead- 
lights were  up  for  all  the  next  day, 
and  the  live-stock  almost  gone;  the 
wind  continued  high  several  days, 
Mrs.  Bowen  &  myself  almost  dead. 
Saturday.  Still  rough  and  disagree- 
able but  the  Captain  says  we  shall 
soon  be  in  sight  of  land,  this  news 
composed  and  satisfied  me  and  1  was 
anticipating  the  pleasure  I  should  feel 
on  being  again  on  shore,  when  a  very 
high  sea  came  and  rushed,  in  a  most 
violent  torrent,  down  the  stair-case, 
and  set  every  thing  a-float;  1  was 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         21 

ignorant  of  the  cause,  &  was  more 
frightened  than  I  had  ever  been  be- 
fore, my  hands  and  feet  were  per- 
fectly benumb'd,  and  it  was  some 
time  before  I  recovered.  My  Dr  little 
Lewis 1  who  was  never  sick  or  fright- 
ened, said,  "  never  mind  Mama,  God 
won't  let  you  die."  Dear  fellow,  he  is 
the  diversion  for  the  whole  Cabin. 
After  this  fright  I  thought  I  could  go 
through  anything,  but  we  had  no 
more.  Mr.  Elmore  assured  us  we 
were  close  on  land ;  we  went  to  bed 
in  high  spirits,  hoping  to  eat  dinner 
in  Falmouth  the  next  day. 

Wednesday  we  all  spent  a  pretty 

iRev.  Lewis  Pintard  Bayard,  D.  D.,  Rector  of 
Trinity  Church,  Newark,  N.  J.,  1813-1820,  and 
Rector  of  Saint  Clement's  Church,  New  York 
City,  1830-1840. 

The  great  desire  of  his  life,  to  visit  the  scenes 
hallowed  by  the  Saviour's  presence,  had  been  ful- 
filled, and  on  his  return  from  Jerusalem,  he  was 
stricken  with  fever  and  died  at  Malta,  and  was 
buried  there  in  1840. 


22  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

anxious  night.  Mr.  Elmore  and  the 
Captain  were  up  the  greater  part  of 
the  night,  and  we  were  much  afraid 
of  striking  some  rocks.  After  being 
on  the  watch  for  many  hours  I  fell 
in  a  sound  sleep,  and  was  wakened 
by  the  joyful  sound  of  "  Land,  Land ! " 
Never  was  I  fill'd  with  so  much  joy 
and  gratitude,  or  never  was  a  sound 
more  welcome  to  my  ears  than  that; 
we  congratulated  each  other  from 
our  berths,  and  all  began  to  dress; 
we  assembled  upon  deck  and  felt  too 
much  overjoyed  to  eat  breakfast,  but, 
on  hearing  that  there  was  no  prospect 
of  getting  on  shore  that  day,  our  joy 
was  a  little  checked,  and  we  returned 
to  our  dry  biscuit,  mortified  and  cha- 
grin'd;  we  were  in  high  spirits  all 
day  at  the  prospect  of  getting  on 
shore  in  the  morning.  I  felt  too  much 
to  be  as  lively  as  the  rest.  We  re- 
tired early  &  had  a  pretty  good  night's 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD         23 

rest.  .  .  .  At  about  nine  in  the  morn- 
ing, just  after  breakfast,  a  little  breeze 
sprung  up  and  we  soon  were  in  sight 
of  Falmouth  —  at  eleven  we  saw  a 
boat  coming  off  to  us.  This  proved 
to  be  the  American  Consul's,  who 
always  sends  out  as  the  vessels  come 
up ;  it  was  a  very  rainy  day,  and  no 
prospect  of  the  ship's  getting  up. 
The  gentlemen  persuaded  us  to  get 
in  their  boat  and  go  on  shore,  which 
we  very  readily  agreed  to,  and  at  two 
o'clock  landed  in  Falmouth.  Never 
in  my  life  did  my  heart  overflow  with 
such  joy  and  gratitude;  I  could  scarce- 
ly believe  myself  on  terra  firma  again ; 
the  air,  the  ground,  the  bread,  every- 
thing was  a  source  of  the  most  sincere 
gratitude,  and  no  one  but  He  who 
searches  the  hearts  of  all  can  tell  my 
feeling,  in  the  morning,  when  waking 
and  finding  myself  in  a  bed  of  safety 
&  quietude. 


24  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

We  ate  a  very  hearty  breakfast; 
the  bread  was  remarkably  fine  and 
grateful,  after  living  so  long  on  dry 
biscuit.  The  Inn  is  larger  than  any 
I  ever  saw,  but  very  dirty.  Mr.  & 
Mrs.  Kirtland  were  engaged  packing 
and  changing  their  baggage,  and  I 
was  persuaded,  tho'  it  was  very 
muddy,  to  take  a  walk  with  Mr.  Fox, 
the  American  Consul.  He  took  me 
to  his  and  his  Brother's  house;  their 
Ladies  both  received  me  with  every 
mark  of  attention  and  respect;  their 
houses  were  very  elegant,  and  the 
gardens  more  highly  improved  than 
any  I  had  ever  seen.  It  seems  to  be  the 
custom  there  to  give  chocolate  to  morn- 
ing visitors,  and  I  was  press'd  by  both 
the  Ladies  to  take  a  dish,  with  cake. 

After  returning  to  the  Inn  we  took 
a  snack,  and  at  two  o'clock  set  out 
on  our  journey — and  I  was  imme- 
diately struck  with  the  beauty  of  the 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD          25 

Country;  the  small  fields  divided  by 
hedges,  the  amazing  verdure  on  the 
ground,  with  the  sweet  harmony  of 
birds  in  the  hedges,  almost  induced 
us  to  think  we  were  trav'ling  thro' 
enchanted  fields  rather  than  English. 
A  short  time,  however,  altered  the 
scene  as  the  Country  began  to  look  bar- 
ren and  bare,  the  appearance  of  De- 
cember rather  than  May ;  the  weather 
was  so  mild  and  the  travelling  so  fine 
that  we  were  induced  to  ride  till  ten 
o'clock,  when  we  reached  Bodmin. 
Here  we  had  the  best  bed  of  any  since 
we  left  Philadelphia,  as  handsome 
Curtains,  and  the  room  as  well  fur- 
nished as  any  gentleman's ;  we  had  a 
most  excellent  supper,  and  very  good 
attendance  ;  arose  early  in  the  morn- 
ing and  pursued  our  journey  through 
rather  a  barren  Country,  the  County 
of  Cornwall,  nothing  but  waste 
ground,  where  the  turf  was  put  up  in 


26  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

hills  to  burn  ;  we  did  not  pass  one 
good  or  comfortable  house  all  day  — 
naught  but  the  Thatched  Cottage 
without  the  shelter  of  one  tree ;  how 
strange  did  it  seem  —  that,  with  so 
much  ground,  there  was  scarcely  the 
appearance  of  any  cultivation, —  how 
forcibly  does  the  difference  strike  an 
American  between  the  Palace  and  the 
Cottage.  We  were  very  much  di- 
verted with  the  language  in  this  place ; 
could  just  find  out  that  it  was  English ; 
and  they  were  the  most  ignorant  peo- 
<3  pie,  I  believe,  in  the  world.  There  was 
one  woman  who  asked  if  we  had 
come  all  the  way  from  America  by 
Land.  But  nothing  struck  me  with 
so  much  disgust  as  the  game  law,  from 
which  a  poor  Man  cannot,  on  his  own 
land,  shoot  a  hare,  which  perhaps 
would  feed  a  wife  and  children,  for 
whom  he  is  unable  to  purchase  meat, 
for  several  days.  Oppressed  people 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD          27 

indeed!  You  will  one  day  or  other, 
I  hope,  claim  your  rights,  and,  like  the 
generous  American,  let  merit  only  dis- 
tinguish the  Man. 

December  8th.  We  reached  Exeter 
late  this  night.  I  was  very  much  fa- 
tigued and  went  immediately  to  bed, 
had  a  very  good  room,  through  the 
politeness  of  a  gentleman  who  had 
taken  it,  and  had  a  good  fire;  but  on 
Mrs.  Bowen  telling  the  Chamber- 
Maid  it  was  for  a  sick  Lady,  he  offered 
to  give  it  up.  Mrs.  Kirtland  rather 
displeased  because  she  had  one  not 
quite  as  good.  We  determined  to  rest 
on  the  Sabbath  day — which  we  did, 
and  found  it  much  more  agreeable 
traveling  alone.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith, 
for  whom  Mr.  Bayard  had  letters, 
call'd  and  invited  us  to  tea  ;  we  ac- 
cordingly waited  on  them  and  were 
received  with  much  friendliness ;  they 
mentioned  the  Cathedral  as  a  great 


28  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

curiosity  to  strangers,  and  went  with 
us,  the  next  day,  to  see  it.  It  was  in- 
deed worth  seeing,  and  the  first  piece 
of  antiquity  we  had  ever  seen.  I 
cannot  recollect  who  it  was  that  built 
it,  but  Mr.  Smith  said  it  had  been 
four  hundred  &  fifty  years  from  the 
foundation  till  it  was  finished.  In  the 
afternoon  we  proceeded  on  our  jour- 
ney, and,  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith, 
dined  on  our  way  at  Mrs.  Davy's; 
dined  there  on  hare ;  it  was  brought 
on  table  in  the  second  course,  but  I 
cannot  say  either  of  us  preferred  it  to 
venison.  We  were  surprised  to  see 
them  eat  celery  with  cheese,  after  din- 
ner; the  Devonshire-cream,  as  they 
call'd  it,  I  was  pleased  with ;  it  is  heated 
over  a  little  fire  with  cinnamon  and 
loaf  sugar.  The  trouble  we  took  in 
going  a  little  out  of  our  way  was  fully 
repaid  by  the  pleasure  it  appeared  to 
give  Mrs.  Davy,  who  seemed  to  regret 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD         29 

the  absence  of  her  Son  very  much ; 
we  left  them  at  three  o'clock  and  pro- 
ceeded on  to  Tiverton,  a  small  but 
pleasant  place ;  we  had  good  accomo- 
dations,  and  rose  very  early  the  next 
morning,  and  reached  Glastonbury  at 
twelve ;  here  we  took  a  view  of  the 
famous  Abbey,  walked  all  through  and 
got  a  piece  of  the  pavement  and  a 
sprig  of  the  holly-thorn  which  blows 
at  Christmas. 

Tuesday  10.  We  arrived  at  Bath 
late  this  evening;  was  very  much 
pleased  with  the  appearance  of  the 
City,  illuminated  as  we  thought,  from 
the  very  brilliant  show  it  made.  We 
are  now  at  the  London  Inn,  and,  from 
every  thing  around  me,  I  should  rather 
suppose  myself  in  the  house  of  some 
private  gentleman  of  three  or  four 
thousand  a  year;  every  thing  is  in  bet- 
ter order  and  higher  style  than  I  ever 
saw  at  an  Inn.  What  are  we  to  ex- 

3* 


)0  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

pect  to-morrow?  I  am  all  impatience. 
After  taking  a  good  dish  of  Coffee 
we  were  shown  to  our  rooms  by  the 
Chamber-Maid,  as  smart  a  looking 
Lady  as  any  you  ever  meet  at  home ; 
she  gave  us  an  excellent  bed,  and,  as 
we  were  much  fatigued,  we  slept  till 
nine,  and  were  refreshed  very  much; 
our  curiosity  would  fain  lead  us  to 
take  a  walk  through  the  city,  but  we 
knew  not  a  creature  whom  we  could 
ask  to  shew  us  the  way ;  however  we 
determined  to  get  a  porter,  and,  while 
we  were  standing  at  the  door,  a  very 
Jarge  woman  came  up  and  asked  the 
nearest  way  to  the  Pump-room ;  we 
immediately  determined  to  follow  her 
which  we  did,  till  I  fancy  she  thought 
we  were  following  her  with  evil  de- 
sign, and  walked  so  slow  that  we  were 
obliged  to  pass  her,  and  then  did  not 
know  what  to  do.  At  length  we 
stepp'd  into  a  shop  and  inquired  the 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD         31 

nearest  way  to  the  Pump-room ;  the 
master  of  the  shop  was  obliging 
enough  to  send  a  little  Girl  with  us; 
we  examined  the  baths  and  different 
rooms,  of  which  there  were  several : 
two  private  rooms  on  each  side  with 
beds  in,  for  them  to  rest  on  after  bath- 
ing ;  these  baths  you  pay  £  per  day ; 
but  there  is  another  large  one  outside 
for  commoners  for  which  but  6d  is  de- 
manded. It  is  equally  good  but  more 
public;  a  constant  smoke  is  rising 
from  that,  and  we  were  told  it  could 
be  made  of  any  heat.  We  tasted  it,  and 
were  almost  made  sick.  There  are 
several  shower-baths  and  every  con- 
venience that  could  be  thought  of. 
We  gave  the  woman  a  trifle  and  re- 
turned to  the  Inn,  fearing  to  go  any 
further.  The  master  of  the  Inn  heard 
by  accident  that  we  were  strangers 
and  begg'd  that  he  might  be  allowed 
to  shew  us  those  parts  of  the  City 


32  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

which  were  worth  seeing ;  we  thanked 
him  and  were  very  glad  to  accept  of 
his  offer.  .  .  .  We  walked,  I  dare  say, 
three  miles  and  were  highly  gratified ; 
the  mode  of  building  pleased  us 
much ;  we  went  into  a  small  Church 
which  was  built  by  some  private 
gentlemen  for  their  own  use;  it  was 
a  very  neat  building,  but  not  remark- 
able for  anything  but  a  very  fine  paint- 
ing done  by  a  lad  of  seventeen.  .  .  . 
After  taking  dinner  we  set  out  for 
the  last  stage  to  London.  The  road 
was  excellent,  the  houses  better  than 
any  we  had  seen,  and  we  hurried  on 
to  reach  Marlborough  that  night,  that 
we  might  get  to  London  by  day- 
light the  next  day.  We  accordingly 
rode  very  late  and  left  Marlborough  at 
four  the  next  day.  The  Country  then 
was  delightful,  the  gentlemen's  Seats 
very  close,  almost  every  mile;  I  never 
felt  my  attention  so  roused;  I  got  a 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          33 

head-ache,  looking  about  .  .  .  and  as 
we  drew  near  the  City  my  impatience 
increased.  At  the  last  change  of  horses 
we  were  told  it  was  ten  miles  from 
London,  and  from  that  the  road  was 
lined  with  houses,  as  close  as  they 
could  stand,  that  I  thought  we  were 
in  London;  but  we  still  rode,  full 
speed,  near  an  hour  long,  and  almost 
lost  in  expectation,  till  at  last  we  en- 
tered the  great  arch  lighted  very  bril- 
liantly with  a  number  of  lamps.  I 
then  thought  we  should  soon  be  at 
the  Adelphi  Hotel ;  but  it  was  full  an 
hour  before  the  Coachman  stopp'd. 
I  seriously  thought  he  had  heard  we 
were  strangers  and  was  trifling  with 
us,  but  we  at  length  reached  our 
place  of  abode,  and  were  shown  into 
a  handsome  parlour,  where  a  fire  was 
soon  lighted,  and  some  tea  and  coffee 
served  up.  We  were  diverted  at  the 
morsel  of  butter  and  the  few  lumps 


34  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

of  sugar  that  they  sent  in ;  I  was  fa- 
tigued and  my  spirits  depressed;  I 
could  eat  nothing.  My  Dear  Mr. 
Bayard  took  notice  of  it  and  ten- 
derly enquired  the  cause,  but  I  could 
not  speak — my  heart  was  too  full; 
my  friends  and  their  affection  rushed 
on  my  mind;  three  thousand  miles 
separated  from  all  of  them,  that  I  was 
in  a  Land  of  strangers  whom  I  had 
early  been  taught  to  look  upon  as 
enemies,  was  a  thought  that  would 
very  naturally  affect  me.  1  could  not 
refrain  from  tears.  Mr.  Bayard  said 
every  thing  he  could  to  reconcile  me 
to  my  situation,  and  begg'd  me  to 
go  to  bed.  I  went  to  my  chamber 
and  was  consoled  by  seeing  Mrs. 
Bowen  (who  knew  not  a  creature) 
look  cheerful  and  contented.  We 
went  to  bed  about  ten,  and  had  a 
good  night's  rest.  In  the  morning 
the  first  thing  I  thought  of  was  writ- 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD          35 

ing  to  my  friend  Bell  Vandam.  I 
dropp'd  her  a  line  by  the  penny  post, 
she  unfortunately  was  out  of  Town ; 
but  her  good  Uncle  came  to  us  im- 
mediately, sent  for  a  Coach  and  di- 
rected the  man  to  drive  to  No.  8 
Guilford  Street,  where  we  were  re- 
ceived with  great  kindness.  Bell 
came  in  just  after;  we  were  both 
rejoiced  at  so  unexpected  a  meeting, 
and  had  a  thousand  things  to  say. 
They  determined  at  once  that  we 
must  live  near  them,  and  went  out 
with  me  that  afternoon  to  look  for 
Lodgings  in  the  neighbourhood;  we 
took  the  best  we  could  find,  for  a 
Month,  till  we  could  get  better.  Our 
friends'  cheerfulness  and  affection 
made,  the  day  pass  agreeably,  and 
we  returned  in  the  evening,  and 
moved  the  next  day.  I  had  never 
lived  at  lodgings  before,  and  was 
rather  dissatisfied.  The  rooms  are 


36  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

dark,  and  muddy,  the  fire  gloomy  & 
dirty,  the  streets  and  the  weather 
insupportable. 

This  Climate  will  never  agree  with 
me;  I  shall  return  to  my  friends  in 
worse  health  than  I  came ;  but  Heaven 
pardon  my  ungratefulness;  let  me  be 
contented  with  the  situation  in  which 
I  am  placed,  and  never  forget  the  late 
mercies  I  have  received. 

Mr.  Vandam's  family  are  very  kind 
and  endeavour  to  remove  every  diffi- 
culty, and  many,  very  many,  I  find  in 
house-keeping ;  it  is  so  different  from 
what  I  have  been  accustomed  to  that 
I  shall  never  feel  contented  till  I  get 
in  some  place  where  they  will  board 
me.  Had  I  but  the  luck  of  getting 
into  a  clever  family,  I  would  put  up 
with  many  a  difficulty  rather  than 
trouble  myself  in  this  way  again.  We 
shall  go  in  search  of  some,  to-morrow ; 
I  cannot  put  up  with  dishonesty.  Mrs. 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          37 

Church  was  the  first  visitor  I  had. 
She  called  the  day  after  we  came,  was 
very  polite  and  sent  us  an  invitation 
for  Sunday,  tho'  this  was  a  day  that  I 
had  always  been  used  to  keep  holy, 
and  not  visit.  As  we  were  strangers 
we  accepted  the  invitation,  but  went 
to  the  foundling  hospital  in  the  morn- 
ing—  heard  a  pretty  good  discourse 
and  were  much  pleased  with  the  clean 
and  neat  appearance  of  the  Children ; 
we  heard  the  blind  man  and  woman 
sing,  but  I  cannot  say  it  pleased  me, 
tho'  the  Man  sang  remarkably  well ; 
but  it  had  too  much  the  appearance 
of  a  play-house ;  however  they  are  ad- 
mired, and  I  must  not  let  my  opinion 
be  heard, —  we  went  in  the  hall,  or 
rather  dining  room,  to  see  the  Chil- 
dren eat  their  dinner. 

It  was  then  near  three  and  time  to  go 
home  and  eat  my  luncheon,  as  they 
call  it,  before  I  dress  for  dinner.  .  4  . 


38  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

I  returned  from  Mrs.  Church's 
much  pleased,  found  her  a  very  agree- 
able woman;  she  met  me  with  as 
much  sociability  as  if  I  had  been  an 
old  acquaintance;  they  live  in  great 
style,  the  house  was  elegantly  fur- 
nished and  the  dining  table  shone 
with  a  full  service  of  Plate,  tho'  less  on 
the  table  than  I  had  ever  seen,  for  so 
many  people,  and  dressed  different; 
the  first  course  I  made  my  dinner  on, 
which  was  Salmon-soup,  and  a  roast 
foul,  Asparagrass  &  string  beans  (in 
Dec. ) ;  she  was  very  attentive  through 
the  evening  and  politely  offered  to 
send  me  her  tickets  for  the  opera  next 
evening;  Mr.  Church  is  an  affable, 
agreeable  Man,  but  engrosses  almost 
too  much  of  the  conversation  .  .  . 

Monday.  According  to  promise  the 
tickets  are  sent,  and  as  it  is  quite  a 
new  thing  we  must  go  and  see  it ... 
Bell  Vandam,  Mr.  Bayard  and  I  set 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD          39 

off  for  the  Opera;  there  was  a  very 
genteel  company,  and  the  house  very 
elegant,  but  we  were  not  much 
pleased  with  the  entertainment,  as 
we  could  not  understand  a  word; 
however  it  is  the  fashion  to  admire  it, 
and  I  must  take  care  what  I  say.  .  .  . 

The  next  week  several  Ladies  called 
upon  me  and  sent  invitations  to  din- 
ner. Christmas  day  we  spent  with  our 
friends  very  agreeably;  but  oh  how 
unlike  the  season  before;  the  next 
day  we  dined  out  of  town  at  Mr. 
Jacobses,  lost  our  way  by  the  stu- 
pidity of  the  Coachman,  and  setting 
out  too  late. 

Sunday  28.  Dined  at  home;  after 
walking  three  or  four  miles  in  pursuit 
of  a  Presbyterian  meeting-house,  we 
found  Mr.  Sterret's,  whom  D.  A.  Rush 
mentioned,  but  unfortunately  he  was 
sick,  and  we  heard  a  very  indifferent 
sermon ;  however  we  were  gratified 


40  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

by  worshipping  in  our  own  way ;  to- 
morrow I  hope  we  shall  be  at  home, 
tho'  it  is  a  less  agreeable  home  than  I 
ever  had.  Tuesday,  Mr.  Bayard  dined 
at  Mr.  Jay's,  and  I  spent  with  our 
good  friends,  and  Wednesday  was  at 
a  large  party  with  them;  Thursday 
evening  went  to  the  theatre,  and  was 
very  highly  entertained ;  the  house  is 
elegant  and  many  of  the  actors  su- 
perior to  ours,  the  changes  in  the 
Pantomime  were  capital,  and  the  mu- 
sic excellent.  Friday  spent  the  day 
very  agreeably  with  Mrs.  Davy ;  found 
everything  perfectly  genteel,  she  ap- 
pears to  be  a  smart,  amiable  Woman 
and  resembles  Mrs.  Nancy  Hodge 
very  much ;  there  were  several  Ladies 
and  gentlemen  there,  and  we  re- 
ceived offers  of  politeness  and  atten- 
tion from  them  all.  We  engaged  to 
dine  and  go  to  Church  with  them  on 
Sunday,  which  we  did,  and  heard  an 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         41 

excellent  discourse  from  a  Mr.  Win- 
ter—  returning  from  Church  we  saw 
my  Lord  Mayor's  State  Coach  at- 
tended by  the  Sheriff;  the  latter  car- 
riage I  thought  much  the  prettier, 
as  it  was  more  modern  and  not  so 
heavy;  the  Mayor's  really  looks  as  if 
it  came  out  of  Noah's  ark,  but,  from 
the  parade  and  show  attending  him, 
a  stranger  would  suppose  he  was  the 
King. 

January  10.  Dined  at  Lord  Bal- 
gonie's;  were  received  with  much 
politeness  and  less  ceremony  than 
I  expected ;  none  of  that  Parade  and 
Form  that  I  looked  for  in  the  house 
of  a  Lord,  but  every  thing  perfectly 
genteel  and  elegant.  "  My  lady  "  (as 
they  call'd  her)  is  a  sensible,  fine- 
looking  woman,  a  handsome  likeness 
of  Miss  Bradford,  tho'  not  quite  so 
large;  she  is  very  affable  and  polite, 
offered  to  get  me  Tickets  of  admit- 


42  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

tance  into  the  privy  Chamber  on  the 
birth-day.  She  accordingly  sent  Tick- 
ets in  the  morning,  and  we  attended ; 
but  I  think  I  shall  never  feel  any  in- 
clination to  go  again,  such  parade  and 
ridiculous  homage  is  disgusting  to  a 
plain  American ;  they  really  treat  the 
King  as  if  he  was  some  superior 
being. 

January  //.  This  day  my  Dear 
Mr.  Bayard  is  28  years  of  age.  Ac- 
cording to  our  usual  custom  we  had 
a  few  friends  to  spend  the  day  with 
us,  but  how  small  the  number  to 
what  I  had  been  accustomed  to  meet 
on  that  day ;  how  did  my  heart  bleed 
at  the  recollection  of  the  tender  and 
heartfelt  congratulations  I  ever  re- 
ceived from  my  friends  on  the  return 
of  this  day ;  Alas !  there  are  none  here 
who  feel  much  interested  for  us.  ... 
How  can  I  ever  rest  another  year  in  this 
place ;  I  trust  our  stay  will  not  be  long. 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD          43 

January  15.  Spent  this  day  at  Mr. 
Vaughan's  very  agreeably ;  found  them 
charmingly  situated,  about  three  miles 
from  Town,  everything  about  them 
plain  tho'  perfectly  genteel,  they  had 
a  thousand  questions  to  ask  us  about 
America.  They  are  great  Americans. 
I  expect  much  pleasure  from  their  ac- 
quaintance. 

January  77.  At  the  first  Card 
party  this  evening  at  Mr.  Coxe's; 
they  live  in  a  much  plainer  style  than 
I  expected ;  have  not  troubled  us  with 
attention,  tho'  I  brought  a  letter  from 
her  Mother;  we  met  Mr.  Furgeson 
there,  who  is  a  fine,  handsome-look- 
ing man ;  we  played  at  loto.  .  .  . 

An  invitation  had  been  sent,  some 
time,  from  Mr.  Barckley's,  and  this 
day  we  promised  to  spend  with  him ; 
he  has  a  charming  place  at  Clapham. 
Found  him  very  friendly  and  polite; 
was  much  affected  at  seeing  his 


44  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

twelve  Orphan  Children,  all  very 
pretty  and  well-dressed ;  saw  the  fa- 
mous Mr.  Wilberforce,  a  small  man  but 
remarkably  sprightly  &  entertaining. 

Sunday  25.  Spent  charmingly  at 
home,  by  ourselves ;  what  an  enjoy- 
ment is  it  sometimes  to  be  alone, 
particularly  on  the  Sabbath  day,  that 
day  which  it  seems  our  duty  to  de- 
vote to  ourselves  &  our  God. 

February  2,  7795.  Dined  at  Mr. 
Pinkney's,  with  a  large  party;  met 
with  Mrs.  Kirtland,  the  most  dress'd 
in  company ;  Mrs.  Church  there  and 
very  plain ;  the  contrast  so  great  that 
I  could  not  help  observing  it.  ... 

I  was  much  pleased  with  Mr.  Pinjc- 
ney,  he  has  very  much  the  appear- 
ance and  delivery  that  our  good  friend 
Mr.  Bradford  has ;  his  situation  inter- 
esting and  distressing,  left  with  seven 
children,  to  learn  the  loss  of  so  ami- 
able a  woman  as  Mrs.  Pinkney  was. 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         45 

I  spent  the  day  at  Mr.  Vandam's; 
saw  Mr.  &  Mrs.  Grant  from  New 
York;  play'd  at  Commerce  &  poole; 
but  shall  never  be  pleased  with  cards. 

Saturday  7.  Mr.  Church  was  so 
polite  as  to  send  me  their  order  for 
his  box  at  the  Theatre,  and,  tho'  the 
play  was  indifferent  and  the  evening 
very  cold,  I  was  induced  to  go.  "  As 
you  Like  it,"  &  "My  Grand  Mother," 
were  performed ;  but  a  little  company, 
and  they  did  not  act  with  spirit;  we 
were  very  sadly  entertained,  and  suf- 
fered extremely  with  the  cold;  the 
next  day  walked  a  great  way  to 
Church  and  returned  home  in  a  vio- 
lent ague,  kept  my  bed  for  several 
days,  but,  thank  God,  am  now  quite 
recovered ;  what  a  blessing  is  health, 
we  know  not  its  value  till  deprived 
of  it.  Still  too  much  indisposed  to 
go  to  the  assembly,  but  prevailed 
upon  Mr.  Bayard  to  go  with  the  ladies 


46  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

with  whom  I  was  engaged  to  go. 
He  returned  quite  early,  highly  pleased 
with  the  brilliancy  of  the  room,  but 
did  not  think  the  ladies  danced  as 
well  as  in  America.  I  am  determined 
to  go  and  judge  for  myself. 

Friday  13.  Spent  the  day  at  home 
in  writing  to  my  friends,  the  most 
agreeable  employment  I  now  have. 
A  very  deep  snow  has  fallen  and  re- 
minds us  of  what  we  have  been  used 
to  see  at  this  season ;  the  poor  suf- 
fer exceedingly ;  coal  is  now  half  a 
guinea  a  sack;  bread  very  high;  a 
scarcity  is  apprehended. 

Monday  16.  .  .  .  Dined  at  Mr. 
Vaughan's,  the  bachelor;  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Barbauld  there,  and  their  Brother 
and  wife  (Dr.  Aiken) ;  Mrs.  Barbauld 
a  very  small  woman,  agreeable  and 
cheerful  in  conversation,  asked  many 
questions  about  America,  &  expressed 
a  wish  to  go  there.  Began  music  this 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD          47 

day  with  Mr.  Jones,  a  very  arduous 
task,  but  I  hope  I  shall  have  resolu- 
tion to  persevere,  as  1  have  so  often 
said  I  would  learn  if  ever  I  had  an 
opportunity.  .  .  . 

Thursday  19.  Spent  the  day  at 
Mrs.  Dickenson's;  was  surprised  to 
see  so  fine  and  large  a  house  in  such 
a  confined  and  small  street,  for  it  is 
situated  quite  up  a  Court;  they  had 
been  in  America,  and  had  a  great 
many  questions  to  ask  about  their  old 
friends;  Mr.  Dickenson  seems  deter- 
mined to  go  and  settle  there  for 
life.  .  .  . 

Tuesday  24.  Was  engaged  at  Mrs. 
Noble's  to  dinner;  set  out  early  and 
called  upon  Mrs.  Church,  Lady  Bal- 
gonie  and  Mrs.  Kirtland  ...  we 
were  received  with  much  affection  by 
Mrs.  Noble  and  her  sister;  spent  the 
most  agreeable  and  sociable  day  we 
had  done  since  we  have  been  in  Eng- 


48  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

land;  conversed  a  great  deal  about 
all  our  friends ;  she  appears  to  know 
everybody.  .  .  . 

Wednesday  25.  How  pleasant  is 
it  sometimes  to  be  alone !  It  is  now 
a  perfect  feast;  I  am  wearied  with 
engagements,  I  long  for  the  enjoy- 
ment once  more  of  a  quiet  life;  how 
delighted  would  I  be  now  to  pass  a 
month  or  two  at  New  Rochelle.  .  .  . 

Thursday  26.  Went  to  the  Lon- 
don assembly,  a  very  brilliant  one  in- 
deed, five  hundred  Ladies  and  gentle- 
men—  all  well  dress'd,  the  room  very 
spacious  and  five  of  the  largest  lustres 
hung  through  the  middle  of  the  room, 
and  twelve  or  fifteen  smaller  around ; 
the  assembly  was  opened  by  two 
minuets,  and  after  those  nothing  was 
danced  but  reels  and  Country  dances. 
They  really  do  not  dance  as  well  as 
Americans,  they  all  appear  to  have 
corns  on  their  feet — their  waists  are 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD          49 

foolishly  short,  I  may  almost  say  they 
had  none ;  I  went  down  into  the  card 
room  where  eighteen  Card  tables 
were  set  and  most  of  them  fill'd  —  in 
the  room  next  the  ball  room  was  tea 
and  coffee  (for  it  seems  they  do  not 
sup),  and  next  to  that  is  a  room  where 
every  refreshment  is  served.  I  danced 
four  dances  and  left  the  room  at 
twelve  o'clock,  but  could  not  get  away 
till  one,  the  constant  cry,  of  Mr.  Such- 
a-one's  carriage  which  was  echo'd 
from  one  servant  to  another  quite 
frighten'd  me  with  the  confusion; 
what  a  life  is  that  of  a  Lady  of  fash- 
ion !  Heaven  forbid  that  ever  I  should 
enjoy  it. 

Friday  27.  Spent  the  day  with 
Mrs.  Townley  and  accompanied  her 
to  the  Oratorio;  tho'  the  music  was 
very  fine  and  I  enjoyed  it  excessively, 
there  was  not  that  solemnity  that  I 
expected  in  sacred  music,  indeed  there 


50  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

is  little  of  that  even  in  the  tunes  that 
are  sung  in  the  Churches ;  it  was  over 
about  ten,  and  we  returned  home.  .  .  . 

Sunday,  March  i.  A  most  delight- 
ful day  indeed,  for  the  reason  we 
attended  service  twice  and  then  dined 
at  Mrs.  Herman's ;  this  I  hope  we  shall 
soon  get  excused  from  —  it  is  much 
more  agreeable  to  be  at  home.  Mon- 
day we  are  to  dine  at  Mrs.  Frasher's ; 
we  are  really  oppressed  by  invitations. 
I  sincerely  hope  it  will  soon  be  over, 
but  almost  every  day  this  week  we 
are  engaged.  I  am  sure  I  shall  be  un- 
pardonable if  I  ever  should  return  to 
my  native  Country  and  not  make  a 
point  of  returning  this  continual  polite- 
ness of  the  English.  .  .  . 

After  being  out  every  day  this  week 
what  a  treat  have  I  found  it  to  be  at 
home  all  this  day,  and,  tho'  we  had  a 
very  shabby  dinner,  I  enjoyed  it  really  ; 
as  we  are  out  so  much,  they  might 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          51 

afford  to  give  us  something  better 
when  we  are  at  home.  How  unfortu- 
nate was  it  that  we  were  engaged  to 
go  to  the  Play  in  the  evening,  other- 
wise our  domestic  engagements  would 
not  have  been  interrupted  for  this 
day  —  it  was  the  first  time  the 
"Wheel  of  Fortune"  was  performed; 
we  were  highly  entertained  with  it, 
as  well  as  with  "Alexander  the 
Great."  .  .  . 

Sunday,  March  8.  We  went  to 
hear  good  Mr.  Winter  ...  he  gave 
us,  as  he  always  does,  a  most  ex- 
cellent discourse,  the  subject,  "Ir- 
resolution as  to  that  life  which  in 
moments  of  reflection  and  retirement 
we  promise  to  lead." 

Monday  9.  ...  How  rejoiced  am 
I  that  Mr.  Parton  has  given  us  notice 
to  leave  these  Lodgings  next  Month ; 
we  cannot  be  worse  off,  every  thing 
is  uncomfortable  about  us — this  even- 


52  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

ing  am  engaged  at  a  private  assembly 
with  Mrs.  Herman  and  Mrs.  Slade, 
but  shall  go  with  much  reluctance,  as 
my  Dr.  Mr.  Bayard  is  too  busy  to  ac- 
company us.  ... 

Sunday,  March  22.  After  a  week 
of  constant  engagement  how  pleas- 
ing is  this  day  in  which  we  are  deter- 
mined to  be  uninterrupted,  but  oh 
what  a  life  do  we  now  lead,  compared 
with  the  quiet,  regular,  rational  one 
that  used  to  mark  the  most  of  our 
days  at  home;  how  little  reflection 
does  it  bear ;  I  trust  however  that  there 
is  some  good  mixed  with  the  folly  that 
is  so  constantly  inviting  us ;  ...  it 
will  not  I  hope  shut  my  ears'  to  the 
cries  of  the  needy  or  distressed,  for 
there  is  no  time  when  their  poverty 
struck  my  mind  more  forcibly  than 
in  beholding  the  vast  entertainments 
or  the  extravagant  equipages  of  the 
wealthy  of  this  place ;  how  comfort- 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          53 

able  would  many  a  poor  Creature  be 
made  by  a  few  pounds  from  each  es- 
tate .  .  .  even  the  wages  and  vic- 
tuals of  one  man-servant  would  bear 
the  whole  expense  of  one  man's 
family,  and  this  servant  perhaps  the 
tenth  or  fifteenth  that  is  kept  for  idle 
show  ...  I  have  been  severely 
shocked  by  the  death  of  Mrs.  Jay; 
only  the  day  before  yesterday  was  I 
conversing  with  her,  and,  tho'  she  had 
been  very  ill,  she  thought  then,  that, 
in  a  few  days,  she  would  be  able  to 
come  in  and  see  me;  we  moved  in 
this  street  with  the  Idea  of  having  her 
for  a  neighbour;  but  alas!  how  un- 
certain is  every  thing  but  death.  .  .  . 
Saturday  28.  .  .  .  Went  out  to 
spend  Sunday  and  Monday  with  Mr. 
&  Mrs.  Bird  and  found  them  charm- 
ingly situated  .  .  .  they  really  live 
elegantly.  I  was  exceedingly  pleas'd 
with  Mrs.  Bird,  but  thought  her  rather 


54  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

distant  and  formal  .  .  .  we  spent 
two  days  there  very  agreeably,  and 
returned  on  Tuesday  to  prepare  for 
a  jaunt  to  Ramsgate  with  Mrs.  Town- 
ley.  She  insists  upon  our  both  going 
in  the  Carriage  with  her,  but  I  am 
afraid  we  shall  have  an  uncomfort- 
able ride.  .  .  . 

Tuesday.  We  have  all  been  en- 
gaged these  two  days  in  packing  up 
to  move,  as  the  things  will  be  taken  to 
our  new  house  before  we  return;  I 
sincerely  hope  we  shall  be  more  com- 
fortable when  we  move;  all  that  I 
dread  is  the  Cook;  the  English  ser- 
vants are  so  different  from  ours  that  I 
fancy  I  shall  not  be  pleased. 

April  7.  Set  out  with  Mrs.  Town- 
ley  for  Ramsgate,  but  unfortunately 
she  had  determined  to  take  her  young- 
est Child  with  her,  and  the  most  un- 
ruly Child  I  ever  saw ;  I  foresaw  that 
we  should  have  a  disagreeable  ride, 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          55 

but  she  kept  him  in  rather  better 
order  than  I  expected;  at  twelve 
o'clock  we  reached  Woolwich  and 
went  to  an  acquaintance  of  Mrs. 
Townley's  who  very  politely  asked 
us  to  dinner;  we  went  down  to  ex- 
amine the  tower.  We  hurried  on  to 
Rochester  that  night,  had  excellent 
beds,  and  the  next  morning  rose  early 
to  walk  about  the  Town.  The  first 
thing  that  drew  our  attention  was 
the  remains  of  a  tower,  and,  tho'  we 
climbed  to  the  top,  still  we  could  not 
see  much  as  the  weather  was  cloudy, 
and  I  was  very  much  afraid  of  the 
walls  falling  in.  From  this  we  next 
went  to  the  Chapel  and  examined 
that.  It  is  a  fine  building  &  worth  a 
stranger's  attention.  We  returned  to 
the  Inn,  took  some  refreshment  and 
proceeded  on  to  Chatham,  visited 
Chatham  Docks  and  reached  Canter- 
bury that  night  —  the  next  day,  being 


56  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

good  Friday,  we  stayed  there  and 
went  in  the  morning  to  the  Cathedral, 
said  to  be  the  finest  in  England;  it 
took  us  two  hours  to  go  through  it; 
there  were  a  great  many  curiosities 
shown  us ;  among  the  most  striking  to 
me  was  the  armour  of  Edward  the 
Black  Prince ;  it  is  so  old  that  touch- 
ing it  it  falls  to  pieces.  The  floor  is  all 
marble;  and  just  near  the  altar,  where 
the  pilgrims  used  to  kneel,  is  quite 
worn  in  a  hollow.  .  .  .  From  this 
we  walked  round  the  City  walls  and 
went  to  see  Simon's  Folly,  as  it  is 
call'd;  it  is  a  very  great  eminence 
raised  with  earth,  in  shape  of  a  sugar 
loaf,  handsomely  sodded  and  a  path, 
with  railings  round  it,  winds  round 
and  round  till  you  reach  the  top, 
where  there  are  handsome  seats  and 
a  most  beautiful  view  of  the  Country. 
...  It  took  its  name  from  the  gen- 
tleman who  had  it  made.  The  next 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD          57 

day  we  arrived  at  Ramsgate,  after  a 
very  pleasant  ride,  and,  tho'  it  was 
rather  cold,  the  evening  was  remark- 
ably pleasant,  the  Moon  shone  with 
unusual  splendour  and  induced  us  to 
take  a  walk  of  about  a  half  a  mile  to 
see  the  first  Pier  in  England,  as  it  is 
call'd,  and  a  most  excellent  one  it  is; 
but  the  dashing  of  the  waves  against 
the  shore,  and  the  hollow  sound  of 
the  wind,  made  me  shudder  at  the 
reflection  of  the  number  of  distress'd 
ships  that  must  in  vain  seek  for  shel- 
ter in  this  friendly  harbour  —  happy 
indeed  are  those  whose  wretched 
bark  is  saved  from  destruction  by 
this  vast  exertion  of  the  benevolent 
builders.  We  examined  the  bathing 
machines,  which  are  much  like  our 
covered  waggons  with  a  large  sail 
behind  and  steps  for  those  who  bathe 
to  descend  ...  we  returned  to  tea, 
and  I  was  glad  to  retire  early.  The 


58  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

next  day  was  not  fine  enough  to  in- 
duce Mrs.  Townley  or  myself  to  go 
out,  but  Mr.  Bayard  walked  all  over 
the  town.  .  .  .  The  next  day  we 
took  a  ride  to  Margate;  it  is  much  the 
finer  town  of  the  two,  tho'  we  durs't 
not  say  so  ...  on  our  return  home 
we  call'd  at  an  acquaintance  of  Mrs. 

Townley,   a  Mrs. ,    a    compleat 

Farmer,  and  one  who  lived  in  elegant 
simplicity;  she  has  all  the  airs  of  a 
fine  Lady,  while  her  Husband  was 
confined  to  his  house  with  that  gen- 
tlemanly complaint  the  gout.  This 
week  has  pass'd  very  agreeably,  but  I 
fear  the  next  will  be  dull  and  tedious, 
as  my  Dr  Mr.  Bayard  is  to  leave  me. 
Separated  from  him,  and  my  Darling 
Boy,  my  heart  can  feel  but  little 
pleasure  in  any  place.  ...  I  shall 
urge  returning  on  Friday.  .  .  . 

Yesterday  we  drank  tea  at  the  cler- 
gyman's of  the  parish,  and,  for  the 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          59 

first  time  in  my  life,  I  play'd  cards  by 
day-light,  and  never  felt  more  awk- 
ward or  ashamed  of  myself ;  the  first 
thing  here,  as  in  London,  on  entering 
a  room  after  tea  is  the  card  tables  in- 
troduced, and  really  there  is  very  little 
pleasure  in  visiting  your  most  intimate 
friend,  on  these  terms,  it  is  the  greatest 
task  I  know  of;  I  shall  never  like  Cards. 

Thursday.  I  rejoice  that  tomorrow 
is  determined  on  for  our  return;  tho' 
Mrs.  Townley  has  been  very  polite  and 
attentive,  I  cannot  be  happy  separated 
from  my  good  Husband  and  Dear 
Boy.  I  should  be  sadly  grieved  if  to- 
morrow should  prove  a  bad  day.  .  .  . 

Sunday  night  we  arrived  at  Clap- 
ham,  very  late.  As  they  expected  us, 
the  Child  was  kept  up,  and  came  run- 
ning to  the  door  with  his  Papa  to  meet 
us;  never  did  my  heart  experience 
more  lively  sentiments  of  maternal  af- 
fection and  joy  than  in  the  moment  I 


60  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

clasped  him  to  my  bosom  —  I  could 
not  speak;  the  dear  fellow  observing 
my  emotion  burst  out  a-crying,  and, 
with  his  little  arms  round  my  neck, 
begged  me  not  to  cry,  now  I  was  with 
him;  I  loved  him  a  short  time,  and 
then  went  to  see  him  in  bed. 

Monday  12.  Came  to  town  to  our 
new  house,  and  found  it  in  a  very 
unfurnished  state,  the  smell  of  the 
paint  very  disagreeable.  Mrs.  Town- 
ley  came  with  us  and  insisted  upon 
our  returning  to  spend  a  week  or  two 
at  Clapham,  but,  as  their  family  was 
large,  we  declined.  ...  I  long  to 
feel  that  I  have  a  home.  .  .  . 

Sunday  18.  As  much  as  1  am 
pleased  with  my  new  situation  I  shall 
be  obliged  to  leave  it  for  a  few  days 
through  the  polite  and  kind  permis- 
sion of  Mrs.  Slade,  who  was  here  yes- 
terday, and  says  we  may  all  get  our 
deaths  by  staying  among  the  paint; 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD          6 1 

the  coach  is  to  call  for  us  this  morning 
and  take  us  to  the  Asylum,  and,  after 
Church,  we  are  to  go  to  the  Park  for 
the  first  time.  .  .  . 

Monday  79.  We  had  an  excellent 
discourse  yesterday  from  a  Mr.  Hodg- 
don  on  death.  It  was  a  Charity  ser- 
mon and  was  deliver'd  with  great 
feeling.  What  a  benevolent  institu- 
tion is  that,  where  upwards  of  a 
hundred  &  fifty  female  Orphans  are 
well  taught  and  enabled  to  get  their 
living  in  an  honest  way;  what  hon- 
our does  this  institution  reflect  upon 
the  founder. 

After  Church  we  went  to  Hyde 
Park,  where  I  was  much  amused  with 
the  sight,  tho'  1  did  not  approve  the 
custom ;  there  were  upwards  of  a  thou- 
sand Carriages  full,  and  the  object  of 
this  meeting  is  to  stare  at  each  other, 
the  Carriages  driving  just  on  a  walk 
close  by  the  side  of  each  other,  when 


62  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

sometimes  the  dust  is  enough  to  choke 
you.  Thus  do  many  people  spend 
every  Sabbath  of  the  year,  when  the 
weather  will  permit,  not  only  them- 
selves but  their  servants ;  for  the  most 
of  them  have  three  great  footmen  be- 
hind their  Carriages.  .  .  .  What  a 
waste  of  time  is  this,  how  irrational, 
and  unlike  the  devotions  of  my  good 
Uncle  Boudinot's  family;  how  much 
more  satisfaction  is  there  in  spending 
time  in  this  way  than  the  idle,  ridic- 
ulous mode  of  riding  up  and  down 
Hyde  Park.  .  .  . 

Wednesday  22.  How  charmingly 
the  time  passes  in  this  agreeable  fam- 
ily [Mrs.  Slade's],  not  an  hour  hangs 
heavy,  because  there  is  not  a  moment 
unoccupied.  Their  attentions  are  be- 
yond anything  we  could  expect.  I 
am  very  much  pleased  with  them. 
Last  Sunday  we  went  to  the  Mag- 
dalen Asylum,  another  benevolent  in- 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          63 

stitution,  where  women  of  abandoned 
character  are  concealed  from  public 
view  &  reformed. 

Thursday,  April 30,  1795*  We  re- 
turned home,  contrary  to  inclination, 
this  day,  in  consequence  of  several 
engagements  to  spend  the  evening; 
fain  would  I  take  advantage  of  the 
present  fashion  and  send  an  apology 
the  day  before,  but  I  cannot  justify 
this  to  myself — it  is  not  doing  as  I 
would  wish  to  be  done  by.  We  left 
our  friends  with  great  reluctance  with 
the  promise  of  paying  them  another 
visit  in  strawberry  season.  .  .  . 

Monday,  May  20.  I  have  been  se- 
verely attacked  with  one  of  those 
violent  fevers  to  which  I  am  so  sub- 
ject, and  alarmed  all  my  friends  so 
much  that  they  sent  for  an  apothe- 
cary, who  did  not  know  half  as  much 
of  my  constitution  as  I  did  myself 
...  he  sent  me  two  or  three  phials 


64  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

of  medicine  a  day,  of  which  I  did  not 
take  a  drop  after  the  first  day ;  there 
was  nothing  did  me  so  much  good  as 
camomile  tea,  and  I  am  now,  thank 
God,  quite  recovered.  .  .  . 

Sunday  10.  We  heard  a  most  ex- 
cellent discourse,  this  morning,  on 
Hope,  from  our  good  Mr.  Winter; 
drank  tea  at  home  quite  alone;  we 
now  begin  to  enjoy  the  comforts  of 
home,  and  tho'  we  are  at  much  more 
expense,  still  I  think  we  are  in  pro- 
portion more  comfortable.  .  .  . 

Wednesday  13.  .  .  .  Dined  with 
a  very  large  party  at  Mrs.  Townley's 
—  met  Mrs.  Townley's  Brother,  a 
Clergyman,  who  plays  on  the  piano 
inimitably;  I  fear  I  shall  never  excel 
as  we  are  engaged  every  day  of  the 
week. 

Monday,  May  25,  7795.  As  a  great 
treat  My  Dr  Mr.  Bayard  took  a  walk 
with  me  this  morning;  we  looked  at 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          65 

a  great  many  pretty  things;  what  a 
variety  there  is  in  this  place  to  tempt 
people.  I  really  find  it  impossible  to 
go  out  without  spending  money ;  we 
went  to  see  the  gallery  of  painting  at 
Somerset  house,  there  are  to  be  seen 
finer  than  any  thing  I  ever  saw  of 
the  kind,  and  we  spent  three  hours 
there  without  knowing  it;  and  such 
a  crowd  of  company,  many  of  whom 
I  am  told  will  spend  four  hours  at 
a  time  there,  often. 

Thursday  28.  This  morning  I  wit- 
nessed the  most  pleasing  and  beauti- 
ful sight  in  the  world  —  six  or  eight 
thousand  Children  were  assembled  in 
St.  Paul's  Church,  and  arranged  in 
perfect  order  and  neatness,  one  above 
the  other,  on  benches  erected  for  the 
purpose;  each  school  was  distin- 
guished by  the  colour  of  the  Children's 
clothes,  and  some  little  flag  —  with 
the  name  of  the  Charity  to  which  they 


66  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

belonged,  and  the  number  supported 
in  it  .  .  .  some  years  I  am  told  there 
are  from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  — 
what  a  charming  and  grateful  sight 
must  this  be  to  a  reflective  mind. 
We,  from  going  early,  had  a  choice 
of  seats,  and  were  very  conveniently 
situated  just  under  the  dome,  as  it  is 
calFd,  which  is  very  near  the  pulpit, 
tho'  we  could  not  hear  a  word  of  the 
sermon  from  the  vast  number  of  peo- 
ple there  were  constantly  coming  in. 
I  never,  1  think,  was  brought  so  near 
heaven  in  my  life,  as  on  the  first 
burst  of  singing,  their  young  voices 
all  according  in  such  delightful  har- 
mony, the  situation  of  them,  their 
being  as  it  were  raised  above  us  in 
the  Clouds,  all  tended  to  impress  my 
mind  with  solemnity  and  fill  my  heart 
with  the  most  grateful  emotion. 

Saturday  6.     We  have  been  en- 
gaged but  twice,  and  I  have  spent  my 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         67 

time  very  agreeably  at  home;  tho'  I 
know  not  why,  but  there  is  a  constant 
gloom  on  my  spirits,  for  which  I  can- 
not account;  tho'  I  am  not  supersti- 
tious I  feel  a  little  uneasy,  and  the 
fatigue  of  last  night  makes  me  feel 
it  particularly  to  day,  we  spent  the 
morning,  for  I  cannot  say  the  evening 
with  any  propriety,  at  Ranelagh;  I 
was  dressed  by  nine  o'clock  and  got  to 
Mrs.  Herman's  at  ten,  where  we  found 
our  party  waiting  supper  for  us.  ... 
We  accordingly  sat  down  to  a  cold 
supper,  and  set  off  at  a  quarter  past 
eleven  —  I  was  so  impatient  that  I 
thought  we  never  should  get  there, 
for  there  was  a  stopping  of  coaches, 
near  a  mile,  before  we  reached  it  —  it 
was  seven  miles  from  Mrs.  Herman's, 
and  it  was  half  past  twelve  when  we 
stopp'd  at  the  door,  and,  tho'  I  had 
heard  so  much  of  the  room,  it  sur- 
passed every  Idea  I  had  formed  both 


68  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

in  size  and  brilliancy ;  it  was  elegantly 
lighted  and  well  fill'd  with  company; 
there  were  upwards  of  five  thousand 
people  all  well  dress'd,  and  most  of 
the  nobility.  The  Music  was  excel- 
lent, but  it  was  not  the  fashion  to  at- 
tend to  it,  we  walked  round  and  round 
the  room  till  I  was  so  completely  fa- 
tigued that  I  could  scarcely  stand ;  the 
gentlemen  at  length  got  a  box  and  we 
ordered  tea,  but  had  it  in  such  confu- 
sion and  hurry  that  it  was  very  un- 
pleasant; at  two  o'clock  we  went  into 
the  gardens  to  see  the  fire-works 
where  we  were  amused  about  half  an 
hour  very  agreeably,  returned  to  the 
room  and  walked  round  it  three  or 
four  times  and  then  found  that  it  was 
three,  and  left  the  room,  seeing  many 
come  in  as  we  went  out.  It  was  then 
as  light  as  at  noon,  and  just  before  we 
got  home  the  sun  arose ;  it  was  a  few 
minutes  after  four  when  I  got  to  my 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         69 

chamber  and,  with  the  assistance  of 
Mrs.  Bowen,  tore  off  my  clothes  and 
jump'd  into  bed ;  never  was  I  more 
rejoiced  to  get  from  any  amusement. 
I  think  nothing  but  going  to  oblige  a 
friend  shall  ever  tempt  me  again; 
I  felt  wretchedly  all  the  next  day,  and 
for  several  days  after  did  not  get 
over  it.  ... 

Wednesday,  June  77.  I  have  this 
day  been  to  see  the  Mausoleum ;  it  is 
the  most  superb  thing  I  ever  saw, 
and,  tho'  it  is  most  intolerably  muddy, 
I  determined  to  go,  as  this  was  said 
to  be  the  last  day  it  was  to  be  seen. 
It  is  now  near  a  fortnight  since  we 
have  had  a  pleasant  day,  indeed  I  can 
hardly  promise  myself  good  weather 
till  I  see  my  own  dear  native  Country 
again.  I  ought  not  to  regret  coming 
here,  tho'  the  climate  at  this  season 
is  so  intolerable,  there  is  such  a  fund 
of  amusement  here  for  a  stranger, 


70  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

that  really  it  is  almost  worth  risking 
the  dangers  of  the  Ocean.  .  .  .  Among 
all  the  curiosities  I  have  seen  there 
is  not  one  I  admire  so  much  as  the 
Mausoleum,  it  is  elegant  beyond  de- 
scription, made  entirely  of  Glass  of 
different  colours,  elegantly  cut.  It  is 
said  to  be  intended  for  the  Tomb  of  an 
Indian  Nabob's  Mother.  .  .  .  The  man 
who  showed  it  told  me  that  he  was 
obliged  to  send  a  person  over  to  put 
it  up.  I  forget  the  price  of  it,  but  it 
was  enormous,  ^4,000.  Vain  mor- 
tals !  how  do  we  strive  to  take  our 
riches  to  the  grave  with  us,  and  how 
hard  do  some  part  with  them,  even 
in  the  hour  of  death.  .  .  .  How  dis- 
gusting is  any  parade  attending  the 
dead;  the  funeral  pomps  of  this  place 
serve  often  to  remind  me  of  the  weak- 
ness and  vanity  of  human  nature.  .  .  . 
How  much  better  could  the  many 
thousands  which  are  laid  out  in  bury- 


MARTHA   P1NTARD   BAYARD         7 1 

ing  the  dead  be  applied  to  the  poor 
of  this  place. 

Sunday,  June  20.  Tho'  we  have 
been  out  several  times  this  week  the 
time  seems  heavy  and  long.  I  sup- 
pose the  reason  is  that  I  have  been 
so  constantly  expecting  letters  and 
so  anxious  for  them ;  tomorrow  will 
bring  something  \  hope  for  us,  it  is 
indeed  now  the  chief  pleasure  I  have, 
that  of  hearing  from  and  writing  to 
my  absent  friends.  .  .  . 

June  21.  This  day,  not  according 
to  my  inclinations,  we  were  to  have 
spent  with  Mr.  &  Mrs.  Turner  at 
their  villa ;  but  the  weather  is  so  bad 
that  we  put  it  off  till  later  in  the 
season;  we  heard  an  excellent  dis- 
course from  Mr.  Winter,  and,  at  two 
o'clock,  Mrs.  Dancer  call'd  and  in- 
sisted upon  our  going  to  Kensington 
Gardens ;  we  accordingly  took  some- 
thing cold  and  jumped  into  a  Coach 


72  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

and  went  to  the  gate;  here  we  were 
admitted  by  an  old  woman,  who  sits 
there  and  sells  refreshments  of  every 
sort.  The  gardens  are  really  beautiful, 
the  spacious  walks,  and  the  lofty 
trees  with  the  pretty  disposed  shrub- 
bery, all  showing  the  richness,  and 
taste  of  this  Country;  the  Palace  is 
only  spacious,  nothing  elegant  or 
handsome  about  it.  This  is  generally 
occupied  by  those  of  the  nobility 
who  are  rather  poor  in  purse,  but  are 
fortunate  in  having  friends  at  Court, 
to  procure  them  this  genteel  apart- 
ment free  from  expense.  .  .  .  Tho' 
the  Park  was  this  day  thronged  with 
people,  still  the  garden  was  nearly  as 
much  so,  tho'  Mrs.  Dancer  said  they 
were  very  thin  compared  to  some 
other  days  .  .  .  the  gardens  are 
said  to  be  four  miles  round,  besides 
the  Park  which  adjoins  it;  and  all  the 
gravel  walks  are  kept  in  the  most 
perfect  order  imaginable. 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD          73 

Tuesday,  June  23.  Took  a  ride  to 
Hempstead,  in  the  afternoon,  with  our 
little  son,  and  drank  tea  at  the  Castle, 
a  famous  house,  which  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  top  of  a  very  high  hill 
and  commands  a  sweet  view  of  as  rich 
a  Country  as  I  ever  saw,  on  one  side, 
and  on  the  other,  the  City  of  London. 
We  stayed  so  late  that  all  the  Coaches 
were  gone  and  we  were  obliged  either 
to  walk  to  Town  or  stay  there  all  night. 
We  determined  to  set  off  on  foot  and 
trust  to  Providence ;  a  Coach  however 
overtook  us  &  we  got  home  safe. 

Thursday  25.  We  have  spent 
this  day  charmingly,  at  home  with 
Mrs.  Slade's  and  Mrs.  Herman's  fam- 
ily; how  much  more  agreeable  are 
a  few  friends  in  this  social  way  than 
all  the  visits  of  ceremony  and  Cards. 
The  Ladies  came  early  to  help  me 
dress  Miss  Doll,  and  the  morning 
passed  very  rapidly.  The  gentlemen 
joined  us  at  half  past  four  and  changed 


74  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

the  conversation  from  dress  to  poli- 
tics. Mrs.  Slade  is  a  charming  wo- 
man; I  am  more  and  more  pleased 
with  her  every  time  we  meet;  1  prom- 
ised to  go  out  on  Saturday  and  ac- 
company her  to  Vauxhall.  .  .  . 

Monday  29.  I  was  highly  pleased 
with  Vauxhall.  I  think  it  is  by  far 
the  most  agreeable  place  of  amusement 
in  London;  the  early  hours,  and  the 
undress  in  which  you  can  go,  ren- 
ders it  much  less  fatiguing;  there 
were  about  four  or  five  hundred  peo- 
ple that  night,  which  I  then  thought 
a  large  company,  but  was  told  the 
gardens  were  very  dull  for  want  of 
more.  The  singing  was  enchanting, 
a  hunting  song  by  Mrs.  Mountain 
inimitable,  and  Dapling  by  Master 
Welsh  extremely  fine,  I  could  listen 
with  pleasure  all  night  to  such  voices. 
We  left  the  garden  at  half  past 
ten. 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD         75 

Saturday,  July  4.  Still  gloomy  wea- 
ther. It  is  now  four  weeks  since  we 
had  a  whole  day  clear.  I  went  this 
morning  with  some  Ladies  to  see  an 
exhibition  of  paintings.  Many  of 
them  are  said  to  belong  to  the  nobility 
of  France  .  .  .  they  are  really  very 
fine,  some  of  them  almost  exceed 
nature,  a  snow-storm  in  particular, 
after  looking  at  which  for  a  few  mo- 
ments, you  would  think  that  on  hold- 
ing out  the  hand  you  might  catch  the 
flakes  as  they  fell ;  the  Portraits  and 
Landscapes  are  excellent,  it  was  a 
very  rainy  day  and  we  all  returned  in 
a  Coach  together.  I  dined  quite  alone, 
as  Mr.  Bayard  was  engaged  to  cele- 
brate the  day  with  a  large  company 
of  Americans,  and  I  suppose  he  finds 
it  hard  to  get  off.  ...  It  is  now 
past  ten,  and  he  is  not  yet  returned  — 
very  unusual  for  him  to  be  out  with- 
out me  so  late.  Doctor  Romayne 


76  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

was  in  just  now,  and  laughing  at  me 
says  he  durst  say  Mr.  Bayard  could 
not  see  straight  enough  to  get  home 
—  but  this  evil,  thank  God,  I  am  not 
uneasy  about — his  knock  at  the  door 
obliges  me  to  lay  down  my  pen  and 
bid  him  welcome.  .  .  . 

Monday  6.  How  often  is  every 
sentiment  of  benevolence  and  com- 
passion call'd  forth  in  this  City,  by  the 
Cries  of  the  oppressed  and  afflicted; 
this  day  have  I  heard  such  a  tale  of 
sorrow  as  would  melt  the  heart  of  a 
stone,  to  see  the  aged  and  infirm  who 
had  lived  in  affluence,  now  begging 
on  the  street,  and  pleading  their  grey 
hairs  as  an  excuse  for  asking  bread 
for  their  Children  —  is  more  than  a  less 
compassionate  heart  than  mine  could 
bear;  I  wept  with  her,  and  could  my 
mite  yield  any  relief  to  her  indigent 
family  how  grateful  would  I  be  for 
this  opportunity  of  doing  my  duty  — 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          77 

but  I  shall  hear  where  she  lives  and 
see  her  again. 

July  jth.  This  day  we  intended 
spending  at  Mrs.  Vaughan's ;  they  have 
been  very  polite,  and  frequently  ex- 
pressed a  wish  to  see  us  quite  in  the 
family,  but  unfortunately  Mr.  Bayard 
was  detained  so  long  in  the  City  that 
it  was  too  late  to  go,  and  as  we  were 
down  by  St.  Paul's  Church  we  deter- 
mined to  go  and  see  it;  but  never  in 
my  life  was  I  so  much  fatigued ;  the 
size  of  it  is  beyond  conception,  not  a 
tenth,  say  a  twelfth,  part  of  it  is 
appropriated  to  public  service — num- 
bers of  families  live  in  it,  and  get  a 
living  from  the  few  pence  that  are 
given  them  by  those  who  go  to  see 
it.  The  floor  of  the  library  is  curious, 
joined  together  entirely  without  a 
nail  or  peg,  many  old  books  that 
were  written  eleven  hundred  years 
ago  on  parchment,  long  before  paper 


78  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

was  discovered ;  the  whispering  gal- 
lery is  wonderful  —  stand  in  any  part 
of  it  and  whisper  against  the  wall, 
and  it  can  be  heard  very  plainly  the 
other  side,  the  report  is  so  great  on 
shutting  the  door  that  it  frightened 
me  as  much  as  a  clap  of  thunder  has 
ever  done.  From  the  top  of  this  you 
have  a  most  beautiful  view  of  Lon- 
don, but  there  are  many  hundred 
steps  to  ascend  before  this  can  be 
obtained. 

July  22.  As  I  am  quite  alone  and 
at  leisure,  I  can  recollect  with  some 
pleasure  the  jaunt  I  took  yesterday  to 
Greenwich.  We  were  of  a  party  of 
about  twelve,  and  went  up  in  two 
boats  to  spend  the  day  there,  the  river 
is  renowned  for  nothing  but  the  ship- 
ping, which  is  immense;  the  Hospital 
makes  a  very  handsome  appearance 
from  the  river,  and  is  an  excellent 
Charity  intended  for  the  support  of 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD         79 

wounded  and  disabled  seamen;  their 
apartments  are  kept  in  very  neat  order, 
and,  besides  their  victuals  and  clothes, 
they  have  an  allowance  of  three  shil- 
lings per  week.  The  painted  Hall  is 
very  fine,  and  the  Chapel  is  more  ele- 
gantly furnished  than  any  I  have  yet 
seen.  The  altar-piece  of  Mr.  West  is 
inimitable — the  old  man  who  showed 
it  said  it  only  cost  eleven  hundred 
guineas.  The  Hospital  is  said  to  con- 
tain at  this  time  twenty-five  hundred 
seamen.  We  had  an  excellent  din- 
ner at  the  " Three  Crowns";  the  first 
course  was  of  fish  entirely,  and  well- 
cooked  ;  but  the  most  beautiful  sight 
there  was  the  West  India  fleet,  which 
was  just  coming  in,  and  pass'd  the 
window. 

July  2^.  This  day  my  dear  little 
boy  has  entered  his  fifth  year.  May 
every  returning  birth-day  of  his  life 
be  mark'd  with  the  same  Innocence 


8O  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

and  Virtue  as  this,  and,  while  he 
grows  in  years,  may  he  increase  in 
Knowledge  and  in  the  Attainment  of 
every  virtuous  and  honorable  Prin- 
ciple ;  he  has  been  highly  pleased  by 
presenting  each  of  the  servants  with 
some  present,  and  the  promise  of  his 
Cousin's  company  to  dinner.  The 
family  are  all  to  be  with  us,  and  I  most 
sincerely  hope  this  may  be  the  last 
birth-day  in  London. 

August  2,  7795.  As  excellent  a  dis- 
course as  I  ever  heard  in  my  life  was 
this  day  from  our  good  Mr.  Winter; 
would  he  was  near  to  us  that  we  might 
hear  him  oftener;  it  was  a  reasonable 
fine  day,  and  we  determined  to  take 
dinner  at  one  of  the  chop-houses  in 
the  City  that  we  might  have  the 
pleasure  of  attending  Church  in  the 
afternoon ;  and  we  were  well  repaid, 
tho'  our  dinner  was  rather  more  than 
was  expected ;  it  was  sacrament-Sun- 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD          8 1 

day,  and  he  took  his  text  from  these 
words,  "Blessed  are  they  who  go  to 
the  house  of  God."  I  never  was 
more  attentive,  and  I  hope  I  shall  be 
more  benefited  than  1  have  ever  been 
before ;  he  placed  religion  in  so  pleas- 
ing a  light,  that  all  who  heard  must 
indeed  have  wished  to  taste  its  de- 
lights. 

Thursday,  Aug.  6.  Induced  by  the 
fineness  of  the  day  we  took  a  ride  out 
to  Mr.  Vaughan's —  the  day  was  re- 
markably clear,  for  England,  and  the 
Country  looked  uncommonly  pleas- 
ant; they  received  us  with  great 
friendliness,  and  treated  us  with  as 
fine  fruit  as  I  ever  have  tasted ;  for  so 
small  a  place,  I  never  saw  more  fruit 
in  my  life ;  they  have  promised  when 
the  nectarines  are  ripe  to  send  me 
some;  there  is  nothing  more  gratify- 
ing to  me  than  to  meet  people  of  our 
own  opinion.  Mr.  Vaughan  is  a  strong 


82  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

American;  it  delights  me  to  hear  him 
converse,  and  Mrs.  Vaughan  is  not  less 
so;  she  is  much  of  the  Lady,  and 
improves  greatly  upon  acquaintance. 
Tomorrow  I  know  of  no  engage- 
ment except  in  the  morning.  I  have 
two  visits  that  I  must  pay,  and  then  I 
shall  pass  the  rest  of  the  day  at  home 
— this  becomes  more  and  more  agree- 
able to  me  every  day,  as  I  am  more 
engaged  in  family  affairs;  I  trust  I 
shall  soon  become  more  contented 
with  London. 

August  14.  Five  years  have  now 
elaps'd  since  the  most  happy  event  of 
my  life,  my  connection  with  my  dear 
Mr.  Bayard;  the  time  has  been  varied 
by  adversity  &  prosperity,  sickness 
and  health,  affliction  and  joy.  Seldom 
does  it  fall  to  the  share  of  my  sex  in 
particular  to  be  united  so  entirely  to 
their  wishes  —  generous,  kind  and 
affectionate,  he  is  all  that  I  wish  him 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          83 

to  be,  and  what  I  shall  strive  to  make 
myself.  We  have  had  our  friends 
over  the  way  here,  and  Mr.  &  Mrs. 
Colepoys  to  dinner.  They  meet  us  with 
much  affection,  my  absent  Friends 
rush'd  on  my  mind  and  I  could 
scarcely  speak ;  however  I  retired  for 
a  moment  and  overcame  my  feelings 
—  endeavouring  to  console  myself 
with  the  hopes  of  spending  the  next 
year  with  them.  Heaven  knows 
whether  I  shall  ever  be  so  happy  again. 
September  8.  We  have  just  re- 
turned from  a  most  agreeable  visit  to 
Dr.  Nicholls,  and,  tho'  it  was  the  first 
time  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  either 
the  Dr.  or  his  Lady,  in  a  half  an  hour 
after  I  got  there  I  felt  perfectly  at 
home;  so  friendly  and  affable  is  she 
that  she  must  be  loved  and  admired 
wherever  known.  I  am  exceedingly 
pleased  with  them  both,  and  regret 
that  we  should  so  long  have  visited 


84  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

without  meeting;  Mrs.  Nicholls  is 
particularly  agreeable  to  me,  from  the 
resemblance  I  see  in  her  manners  to 
Mrs.  Bradford ;  she  has  all  Mrs.  Brad- 
ford's cheerfulness  and  ease  in  her  man- 
ners, joined  to  a  very  handsome  face, 
and  as  fine  an  eye  as  I  ever  saw ;  she 
has  two  sweet  Children,  with  the 
means  of  making  them  as  fine  women 
as  herself;  they  live  as  genteely  as  any 
nobleman,  nay  1  may  say  they  have  all 
the  advantages  of  these,  both  in  ele- 
gance, and  style  without  the  least  form 
or  ceremony,  their  dinners  were  as 
elegant,  for  the  three  days  that  we 
were  there,  as  many  large  entertain- 
ments I  have  been  at  here ;  four  Foot- 
men constantly  attended — which  by- 
the-by  I  thought  unnecessary;  but 
this  was  style.  We  spent  our  time 
most  charmingly,  and  proposed  re- 
turning on  Monday,  but  they  politely 
insisted  on  our  staying,  and,  as  an 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         85 

inducement,  proposed  a  jaunt  to  St. 
Albans,  a  small  town  about  8  or  10 
miles  from  there;  we  accordingly 
set  out  and  stopp'd  a  little  this  side, 
at  a  Church  of  St.  Nichols,  where 
there  is  a  famous  statue  of  Lord 
Bacon,  said  to  be  remarkably  well 
done ;  the  Church  is  small  but  ancient 
— the  parsonage  is  close  by  it.  As 
they  were  intimately  acquainted  with 
the  Dr.  we  were  hospitably  invited  to 
a  simple  repast,  which  was  prepared 
with  much  neatness  while  we  were 
in  the  Church;  the  house  and  the 
reception,  with  everything  around  it, 
perfectly  answered  the  Idea  I  had 
formed  of  a  Country-pastor  in  Eng- 
land; it  was  genteel  but  small,  and 
ornamented  in  the  prettiest  style  by 
Mrs.  Gap's  own  hands — the  green- 
house was  on  one  side  and  hot-house 
on  the  other,  both  fill'd  with  every- 
thing that  was  good  or  pretty.  The 


86  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

green-house  in  particular  took  my 
attention ;  it  was  full  of  the  choicest 
flowers,  and  so  perfumed  the  air  that 
it  was  a  regale  to  breathe  in  the  atmos- 
phere. After  refreshing  ourselves  here 
we  went  to  the  Abbey  at  St.  Albans, 
a  very  ancient  building,  but  very  much 
injured  by  time ;  here  we  descended 
into  a  vault  and  handled  the  bones  of 
good  Duke  Humphrey.  There  was 
one  stone  coffin  which  was  found, 
above  thirty  years  ago,  with  bones  in 
it,  and,  at  one  end,  a  small  cup ;  the 
teeth  that  were  found  in  this  coffin  are 
still  shown,  and  Mrs.  Bush  hearing  me 
say  I  should  like  one,  kept  one  in  her 
hand  for  me  till  we  got  to  the  inn, 
which  the  old  Man  soon  missing  came 
after  us,  and  frightened  me  so  that  I 
was  glad  to  give  it  up.  ...  From 
this  we  proceeded  on  to  Lord  Grim- 
ston's  Seat.  The  House  is  built  on  a 
beautiful  eminence,  with  a  large  lawn 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          87 

all  round  it,  in  which  are  clumps  of 
trees  very  prettily  disposed  of,  and 
several  hundred  deer  grazing  beneath 
them  —  everything  around  speaks  the 
immense  riches  of  its  possessor. 
After  ascending  twenty  odd  steps,  a 
well  dressed  porter  opens  two  large 
folding  doors  and  ushers  you  into  a 
most  superb  hall  handsomely  orna- 
mented with  pictures  of  Kings, 
Queens,  &c.,  and  a  gallery  above  hung 
in  the  same  manner, — the  Hall  is  sixty 
feet  high,  the  House  is  rather  in  an 
unfinished  state — his  Lady's  death, 
which  was  greatly  lamented,  dissi- 
pated his  scheme  of  felicity,  and 
checked  his  rising  ambition.  She 
died  just  as  it  was  got  in  the  order  it 
now  is,  and  he  has  never  since  had 
anything  done  to  it— the  drawing- 
room  and  Parlour  were  very  elegant, 
but  no  part  of  the  house  struck  my 
fancy  so  much  as  the  library,  which 


88  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

was  extended  on  both  sides  of  the 
room  which  was  very  large,  the  doors 
of  the  library  were  wired,  with  blue 
silk  curtains  festooned  above.  The 
furniture  of  the  room  was  plain  dim- 
ity with  chintz  border;  two  sophas, 
with  several  tables  standing  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  room  with  pen,  ink, 
paintings  &c. ;  the  drawing-room  fur- 
niture was  striped  blue  satin,  with  a 
sopha  at  one  end  and  a  large  Organ  at 
the  other  .  .  .  the  floors  were  all  oak 
and  rubb'd  with  silver  sand.  I  never 
was  more  gratified  in  my  life.  .  .  . 
September  13.  The  day  was  remark- 
ably fine,  and  we  determined  to  make 
our  long  intended  visit  to  Richmond, 
we  set  off  about  ten  o'clock,  and  had 
just  got  there  and  were  walking  on 
the  side  of  the  Thames,  when,  to  our 
great  surprise,  the  Dr.  and  Bell  were 
close  behind  us;  this  was  an  agree- 
able addition  to  our  party;  we  had 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          89 

a  charming  walk  and  crossed  over 
the  river  to  Twickenham  where  we 
went  to  see  Pope's  gardens  and  his 
Cave  —  of  which  I  have  heard  so 
much.  This  is  a  place  built  under 
ground,  supposed  to  be  intended  for 
his  study;  on  one  side  of  the  Cave 
is  a  large  bath,  and  on  the  other  his 
study,  with  one  small  window,  a  stand, 
one  Chair,  and  a  kind  of  Couch,  with 
mattress  and  pillows  round  it.  It  is 
built  of  variegated  stone  so  strongly 
connected  together,  that  it  seems 
like  one  solid  rock.  After  this  we 
walked  through  the  gardens  which 
are  beautiful ;  at  one  end,  in  a  retired 
place,  on  an  eminence,  is  a  monu- 
ment erected  to  the  memory  of  his 
Mother,  on  which  is  inscribed,  .  .  . 
"Ah!  Edellia,  best  of  Mothers  and 
most  beloved  of  Women;  farewell" 
October  28.  We  were  received  at 
Mr.  Gordon's  with  every  mark  of  af- 


90  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

faction  and  attention;  I  promise  my- 
self much  more  pleasure  on  this  visit 
than  the  one  to  Miss  Dancer;  tho' 
they  were  very  polite,  still  it  ap- 
peared to  be  because  they  thought 
themselves  obliged  to  be  so  in  their 
own  house;  Miss  Dancer  is  by  no 
means  an  agreeable  woman,  is  much 
of  an  old  Maid,  affects  to  be  very 
nervous  and  delicate  —  and  I  really 
think,  if  any  of  our  sex  is  ever  hon- 
our'd  with  a  sight  of  his  Old  Majesty, 
she  may  be.  The  Races  diverted  me 
exceedingly;  the  number  that  were 
present  is  incredible.  The  life  I  now 
lead  reminds  me  so  much  of  my  good 
Uncle  Boudinot's  family,  that  I  sup- 
pose myself  there,  surrounded  by  those 
many  and  dear  friends,  who  used  to 
join  us  in  this  delightful  exercise ;  we 
now  lie  down  as  we  rise  up,  implor- 
ing the  blessing  of  divine  Providence. 
I  have  neglected  mentioning  our  visit 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         9! 

to  Lord  Exeter's  seat  near  Stanford, 
this  is  superb  indeed ;  I  do  not  think 
it  possible  we  shall  see  anything  su- 
perior in  England;  the  showing  it  is 
five  shillings;  and  it  is  well  worth 
this.  The  Chapel  adjoining  their  house 
is  large  enough  for  two  or  three  hun- 
dred people,  and  the  paintings  are 
very  fine,  but  those  in  the  other  rooms 
are  superior;  there  is  one  of  our  Sa- 
viour with  the  bread  and  wine  that 
I  thought  remarkable,  and  the  Girl 
told  us  that  her  master  had  refused 
three  thousand  pounds  for  it,  and  an- 
other, which  he  brought  over  from 
Italy,  cost  fifteen  hundred  guineas. 
The  two  last  rooms  we  were  shown 
represented  one  Heaven  and  the  other 
Hell,  but  one  of  the  greatest  curiosities 
is  a  bed  which  Queen  Elizabeth  used 
to  sleep  in,  when  on  her  annual  visit 
to  this  place;  it  was  made  of  green 
satin  embroidered  with  gold  &  sil- 


92  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

ver,  and  lin'd  with  yellow  satin. 
There  were  several  velvet  &  satin 
beds,  tho'  not  so  old  as  this;  we  were 
shown  thirty  rooms  with  the  napery, 
and  hall ;  and,  tho'  we  merely  looked 
at  the  pictures,  were  two  hours  going 
through  them.  Tho'  1  was  highly 
gratified,  still  I  could  not  help  regret- 
ting that  so  much  money  was  thrown 
away  in  idle  show,  the  interest  of 
which  would  have  gladdened  the 
hearts  of  so  many  poor  distress'd  crea- 
tures; in  the  dining  room  were  sev- 
eral Gold  plates  and  dishes,  and,  on 
the  floor,  a  long  cooler  weighing  three 
thousand  pounds.  The  entrance  to 
the  house  is  very  fine,  and  you  would 
think  you  were  approaching  some 
town  or  public  building;  there  is  a 
beautiful  made  river  passing  through 
the  grounds,  with  several  handsome 
bridges,  a  great  many  deer  and  hare, 
and  all  together,  it  surpasses  any- 
thing we  ever  saw. 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD          93 

October  7.  This  day  we  got  safely 
home  and  spent  the  evening  at  Mr. 
Vandam's ;  as  we  were  much  fatigued, 
I  left  them  early  and  was  rejoiced  at 
finding  in  the  parlour  several  letters 
from  home,  among  which  was  one 
from  Mr.  A.  Bayard;  but  oh!  such 
a  shock  as  I  received  on  looking  over 
Mr.  Bayard's  shoulder,  as  I  never  ex- 
perienced before  in  my  life  .  .  .  the 
sudden  death  of  our  beloved  Mr.  Brad- 
ford, that  life  dear  to  so  many  .  .  . 
and  so  highly  valued  by  all ;  how  little 
did  I  think  we  gave  him  a  last  fare- 
well; but  my  poor  Cousin,  said  I, 
what  must  her  heart  endure  at  this 
trying,  this  distracted  moment,  nurst 
in  the  arms  of  affection  and  tenderness, 
she  has  never  felt  the  hand  of  affliction, 
but  in  sympathy  for  others,  grief  was 
a  stranger  to  their  dwelling,  nought 
but  affection,  genuine  and  sincere, 
hospitality,  with  every  virtue  which 
renders  life  an  enjoyment,  resided 


94  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

here — but  Alas!  what  are  all  these 
possessions,  how  suddenly  does  one 
stroke  disappoint  our  hopes  and  blast 
every  earthly  comfort ;  honours,  talent, 
wealth  and  every  virtue  availeth  but 
little,  when  the  voice  of  God  calls  us 
to  the  great  tribunal — what  then  is 
life  that  we  should  be  so  desirous  of 
it;  but  a  few  years,  and  the  longest 
days  that  are  appointed  for  man  are 
gone.  .  .  .  May  that  God  who  never 
afflicts  but  in  mercy,  sanctify  this 
heavy  stroke  to  us,  may  it  teach  us 
not  to  set  too  high  a  value  on  any 
attainment  in  this  world,  but  enjoy 
everything  with  moderation,  and  sub- 
mission to  his  will;  and  while  we 
weep  at  the  grave  of  so  beloved  a 
friend,  and  lament  his  irreparable 
loss  —  may  we  fix  our  only  hope  on 
that  rock  which  never  faileth.  I  never 
felt  so  much  in  my  life,  and  I  know 
not  when  I  can  cease  to  feel  such 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         95 

a  loss.  ...  I  shall  never  be  happy 
till  I  get  home  to  mingle  my  tears 
with  my  dear  Susan  and  strive  to 
soothe  her  grief  by  affection  and  sym- 
pathy; I  shall  go  in  no  company,  I 
cannot  enjoy  any  thing  while  my 
friend  is  in  such  affliction;  may  a 
kind  Providence  support  her. 

November  5.  This  morning  Dot 
Fisher  call'd  to  take  his  leave;  he  is 
just  setting  off  for  America ;  I  cannot 
describe  my  feelings  on  seeing  him; 
the  Idea  of  his  so  soon  embracing  the 
friends  I  love,  living  so  near  them 
and  enjoying  their  conversation,  af- 
fected me  so  much  that  I  could  scarcely 
speak;  oh!  that  I  could  go  with  you, 
said  I;  gladly  would  I  risk  the  tem- 
pestuous ocean  at  this  season,  rather 
than  be  deprived  of  the  society  of 
those  friends  so  deservedly  dear ;  but 
it  is  ordered  otherwise,  and  I  must 
endeavor  to  be  contented. 


96  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

7.  ...  We  have  spent  a  charm- 
ing day  with  Mrs.  Nicholl;  she  is  a 
sweet  woman  indeed ;  she  has  more 
ease  and  less  ceremony  than  any  per- 
son I  have  met  in  England;  we  have 
another  invitation  to  spend  some  time 
with  them  this  summer,  and  I  am 
delighted  with  it,  as  I  know  I  shall 
pass  my  time  so  agreeably;  she  has 
two  sweet  Children  and  manages 
them  after  my  system,  which  I  was 
so  much  blamed  for  at  home;  but 
these  are  a  proof  that  gentleness  is 
by  far  the  best,  with  reasonable  tem- 
pers. 

November  9,  1795-  This  day  year 
we  took  leave  of  our  native  Country, 
that  Country  which  will  ever  be  dear 
to  my  heart,  as  it  contains  the  friends 
whom  I  love  with  so  much  tender- 
ness; and,  tho'  I  am  enjoying  every 
comfort,  and  am  surrounded  on  every 
side  with  the  smiles  of  prosperity, 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD         97 

still  my  mind  dwells  with  a  melan- 
choly satisfaction  on  those  days  when 
the  society  of  my  friends  made  up  for 
the  want  of  that  affluence  I  now  have 
in  prospect,  and  I  regret  that  in  the 
possession  of  one  I  am  obliged  to  re- 
linquish the  other;  but  Alas!  how 
checkered  are  all  the  enjoyments  of 
this  life,  how  changeable  and  uncer- 
tain; what  we  possess  one  moment, 
we  are  call'd  upon  to  give  up  another, 
and,  tho'  the  society  of  my  friends  is 
taken  from  me,  still  I  have  many, 
very  many  mercies  to  be  thankful  for; 
while  so  many  of  my  friends  are 
mourning  the  loss  of  near  and  dear 
connections,  the  tender  names  of  Hus- 
band, Child,  and  Parents  are  still 
granted  to  me;  Merciful  Father,  let 
me  not  be  ungrateful,  let  me  not  so 
much  repine  at  a  separation  which  thy 
Providence  has  ordained,  but  let  my 
lips  and  my  heart  praise  thee,  that,  in 


98  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

this  land  of  strangers,  I  have  still  a 
God,  who  is  the  same  all  over  the 
world. 

This  has  been  a  delightful  day  and 
we  went  to  see  the  Lord  Mayor 
parade  through  the  streets  in  state; 
the  view  we  had  of  him  from  Black- 
friars  bridge  was  beautiful ;  there  were 
several  barges  that  accompanied  him, 
very  handsomely  ornamented,  and  the 
whole  river  was  covered  with  boats. 
After  seeing  this  parade  we  went 
round  to  Mr.  Townley,  that  we  might 
see  him  in  his  state  Coach;  the 
crowd  was  immense  on  both  sides  of 
them;  their  Carriages  were  elegant, 
and  the  equipage  superb;  the  tassels 
on  the  horse's  heads  are  said  to  have 
cost  twenty-five  guineas ;  the  former 
Mayor  was  a  great  favourite  among 
the  people,  and,  as  he  pass'd,  they 
stopp'd  the  horses,  and  drew  his 
Carriage  themselves,  as  the  greatest 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD         99 

mark  of  their  respect  and  affection  — 
this  to  a  feeling  heart,  who  was  confi- 
dent of  deserving  it,  must  be  highly 
gratifying,  and  must  have  given  rise 
to  emotions  which  none  but  good  and 
great  men  can  know.  .  .  . 

December  25.  Alas !  what  a  Christ- 
mas have  I  passed  this  year;  how  un- 
like those  when  1  was  surrounded  by 
all  I  lov'd.  This  reflection,  with  the 
Idea  of  what  my  friends  must  feel  at 
the  return  of  a  season  when  naught 
but  mirth  and  gladness  used  to  fill 
every  breast,  affects  my  mind  with  the 
most  gloomy  sensations.  What  a 
day  must  this  be  to  them ;  how  must 
their  hearts  bleed  at  the  recollection 
of  the  season  pass'd  with  him  so  be- 
loved and  so  highly  valued.  Methinks 
they  are  ever  tracing  back  those  days 
of  former  happiness,  and  regretting 
they  valued  or  improved  them  so 
little ;  how  few  of  us  are  there  who, 


IOO  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

in  the  possession  of  any  blessing, 
know  how  to  value  it  sufficiently,  till, 
by  the  hand  of  death,  it  is  snatched 
from  us ;  what  havock  has  this  cruel 
tyrant  made  in  our  family  this  last 
year.  Alas !  the  afflicted  Widows  and 
Children  best  can  feel;  their  hearts 
have  been  pierced  with  the  deepest 
wound. 

January  14.  Day  after  day  passes, 
and  still  my  mind  remains  in  the  same 
dejected  state  it  was  the  first  week 
I  heard  the  melancholy  news  from 
home.  Alas!  when  will  it  be  other- 
wise. I  am  constantly  thinking  of 
home.  I  go  into  no  company,  and, 
even  in  the  society  of  my  most  inti- 
mate friends,  my  thoughts  wander  and 
my  spirits  sink ;  I  fear  much  that  it 
will  affect  my  health,  and  that  I  shall 
never  meet  my  beloved  friends  on  this 
side  the  grave. 

February  //.     This  day  my  heart 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       IOI 

is  awake  to  every  sentiment  of  grati- 
tude and  affection ;  it  is  the  day  which 
gave  birth  to  my  beloved  Husband; 
and,  while  many  of  my  friends  are 
weeping  over  the  ashes  of  their  Hus- 
bands, I  am  still  enjoying  the  most 
tender  connections  o?  F^tiat ,  :and 
Child ;  merciful  Fath^>,  make ,  iw , 
thankful  for  these  inesfin^W^blfes^ 
ings. 

March  25,  7796.  As  we  have 
passed  a  very  gloomy  winter,  through 
the  persuasion  of  Doct.  Romayne  and 
Bell  Vandam,  we  have  consented  to 
accompany  them  to  Bath,  and  shall 
set  out  tomorrow;  I  am  pleased  with 
the  jaunt  only  that  it  will  oblige  me 
to  be  so  long  absent  from  my  little 
boy;  however,  I  leave  him  in  good 
hands,  and  Aunt  Kitty  has  promised 
to  see  him  every  day.  I  will  en- 
deavour not  to  be  too  anxious. 


IO2  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

Letter  to  Mrs.  Boudinot. 

London,  April  8.  Returned  from 
a  most  agreeable  jaunt  to  Bath  and 
Bristol,  my  first  moments  are  devoted 
to  my  beloved  Aunt  and  Cousin. 
Every  enjoyment  I  have  here,  in  this 
way,  is  always  highten'd  by  the  Idea 
of  describing  it  to  them ;  particularly 
when  it  is  of  that  nature  that  I  am 
sure  it  will  amuse  their  minds  and 
gratify  their  affection ;  the  latter  effect 
it  will  have,  when  I  tell  them  that  my 
health  is  so  improved.  From  my 
want  of  spirits  and  confining  myself 
so  much  to  the  house  this  winter  1 
lost  my  appetite  and  was  quite  indis- 
posed .  .  .  but  the  exercise  and  the 
waters  have  been  of  service  to  me. 
I  tried  the  bath,  one  morning,  and 
found  it  charming,  tho'  rather  debili- 
tated; believe  me,  while  in  it,  I 
thought  of  my  Dr.  Aunt's  old  back, 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD        1 03 

and  wished  sincerely  that  she  could 
enjoy  it.  We  accompanied  Dr.  Ro- 
Tnayne  there,  and,  from  traveling  in  a 
private  Carriage,  we  had  the  first  at- 
tendance on  the  road.  We  approached 
Bath  road,  by  the  silver  Avon,  for 
several  miles.  This  river,  so  much 
celebrated  in  Poetry,  like  the  Thames, 
is  not  wider  than  the  brook  in  your 
meadow  after  a  small  freshet,  but 
winds  with  great  beauty,  through  a 
most  delightful  and  highly  cultivated 
Country.  The  City  is  very  handsome, 
tho'  not  large;  we  spent  three  days 
there,  and  then  had  a  charming  ride 
to  Bristol,  through  the  richest  Scenes 
of  nature  you  can  conceive.  This 
City  is  very  inferior,  but  remarkable 
for  several  very  fine  buildings ;  among 
the  first  of  these  is  the  Cathedral;  in 
this  we  saw  several  very  fine  monu- 
ments, and  one  of  Sterne's  Eliza 
which  was  very  beautiful,  and,  as 


104  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

nearly  as  I  can  recollect,  was  two  fe- 
male figures,  in  white  marble,  sup- 
porting an  Urn;  one  representing 
genius,  with  her  right  hand  on  her 
breast,  and  in  the  other  the  trumpet 
of  fame ;  the  opposite  figure  repre- 
sents benevolence,  holding  in  her  left 
hand  a  nest  in  which  a  pelican  is 
nourishing  her  young  with  her  blood, 
and  the  other  hand  points  to  this  in- 
scription :  "  Sacred  to  the  memory  of 
Mrs.  E.  Drapen  in  whom  Genius  & 
benevolence  were  united."  We  spent 
one  day  at  Bristol,  and  proceeded  on 
our  Tour  to  Oxford;  here  we  saw 
what  my  pen  is  not  equal  to  describe. 
I  must  refer  you  to  Mr.  Bayard's  jour- 
nal to  Miss  Bradford,  which  he  will 
send  as  soon  as  he  has  leisure  .  .  . 
he  has  too  much  writing  for  any  one 
person  to  do  with  safety.  I  am  afraid 
it  will  injure  him.  You  will  recollect, 
my  Aunt,  that  this  is  Intended  only  for 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       IOJ 

you  and  my  Cousin's  eyes.  If  it  serves 
to  enliven  her  mind,  for  a  moment, 
I  shall  be  gratified  —  my  tender  and 
most  affectionate  love  to  her;  say  that 
I  still  hope  daily  to  hear  from  her;  my 
Uncle  shares,  as  a  Parent,  my  gratitude 
&  affection ;  his  last  letter  almost  kill'd 
us,  still  we  look  anxiously  for  another 
.  .  .  my  good  friends  R.  and  H.  share 
in  my  remembrance,  and  believe  me, 
my  beloved  Aunt  &  Cousin,  your  very 
affectionate  and  ever  grateful. —  P.  B. 
I  had  liked  to  forgot  telling  you  that 
the  paper  on  which  I  am  writing  is 
what  they  call  embellished  paper,  for 
the  nobility  and  great  folks.  I  shall 
direct  this  letter  in  the  tip  of  the  mode 
for  you,  as  I  have  seen  several  lately.1 

1  The  large  square  letter-sheet  which  was  then 
"  the  tip  of  the  mode"  for  ladies,  is  embossed  on 
the  first  page  with  a  wide  border  at  the  top,  in 
which  are  two  medallioned  heads  ;  and  along  the 
sides  and  at  the  bottom,  with  a  border  of  geomet- 
rical design  inclosing  Latin  mottoes. 


106  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

We  have  just  returned  from  our 
jaunt,  and  found  our  dear  boy  quite 
well,  and  rejoiced  to  meet  us  again. 
I  really  think  I  shall  not,  in  a  great 
while,  leave  him  so  long;  it  mars  all 
the  pleasure  of  a  jaunt — tho'  this  has 
been  a  very  agreeable  one  to  us  all. 
We  traveled  slowly,  lived  well,  but 
not  extravagantly.  About  half  a  mile 
before  we  got  in  Bath  we  rode  by  the 
sweet  "silver  Avon"  till  we  entered 
the  City;  we  went  to  the  famous 
White-Heart  Inn,  and  were  very  well 
accommodated ;  our  dinners  were  al- 
ways served  up  on  silver  dishes  with 
covers,  and  extremely  well  dressed ; 
after  dinner  we  took  a  walk  on  the 
parade,  but  saw  very  little  company ; 
the  next  morning  we  went  to  see  the 
assembly  room,  which  is  elegant  in- 
deed, and  Pultney  street  far  surpasses 
any  in  London,  the  Circuits  and  Cres- 
cents are  beautiful;  in  the  evening 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       1 07 

Miss  Wallace  was  to  perform  in  the 
Sultana,  and  we  determined  to  go  and 
see  her,  &  were  highly  entertained; 
she  is  certainly  an  excellent  actress. 
The  next  morning  I  got  up  and  went 
into  the  warm  bath ;  the  Inn  was  close 
by,  and  I  was  charmed  with  it; 
wished  for  Papa  and  Aunt  Boudinot; 
I  had  been  afflicted  with  a  most  violent 
cold  for  several  months,  and  I  really 
found  great  relief  while  in  the  bath, 
but  was  quite  exhausted  when  I  came 
out;  as  it  was  very  early  I  went  to 
bed  and  never  slept  sounder,  for  two 
hours ;  my  health  has  evidently  been 
better  since,  and  I  am  greatly  indebted 
to  the  bath  for  it;  the  next  day  we 
proceeded  to  Bristol,  but  were  not  so 
much  pleased  as  with  Bath;  it  is  a 
confined,  dirty  place,  but  the  Country 
round  it  is  very  fine ;  the  water  there 
I  thought  had  no  peculiar  taste;  we 
drank  a  little  and  were  contented. 


1O8  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

On  our  return  home  we  found  our 
dear  little  boy  had  been  very  sick,  as 
well  as  Mrs.  Bowen;  this  made  me 
determine  never  to  leave  him  again  so 
long.  Good  Aunt  Kitty  had  been  very 
kind,  as  she  always  is ;  I  really  do  not 
know  what  I  should  do  if  it  was  not 
for  her.  .  .  . 

April.  The  fineness  of  the  day  in- 
duced us  to  take  a  walk  this  morning, 
and,  as  Mr.  Dancer  had  frequently  ex- 
pressed a  wish  to  go  with  us  to  the 
exhibition,  we  sent  for  him,  and  all 
went  together;  it  is  certainly  a  very 
elegant  place,  and  we  spent  two  hours 
there  very  agreeably,  tho'  there  are 
many  who  spend  eight  hours  there. 

June,  1796.  Never  was  I  more  sur- 
prised in  all  my  life  than  this  morning 
on  hearing  of  Bell  Vandam's  marriage, 
&  to  a  person  who  I  have  scarce  ever 
seen  there.  It  is  a  little  extraordinary, 
that,  tho'  I  am  with  her  almost  every 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD       109 

day,  I  should  never  have  suspected  an 
attachment.  It  must  be  a  very  sudden 
affair;  the  poor  Doctor  [Romayne] 
will  be  astonished  and  mortified ;  for 
I  really  believe  he  has  the  vanity  to 
think  he  can  do  anything  with  her; 
and  I  sincerely  hope  he  may  be  dis- 
appointed, which  no  doubt  he  will  be, 
when  he  finds  she  is  another's.  .  . 

We  have  just  returned  from  a  very 
pleasant  jaunt  to  Windsor,  where  we 
had  the  honour  of  seeing  their  Majes- 
ties, and  walking  on  the  terrace  with 
them.  The  Parade  &  show  that  is 
made  with  them  is  truly  ridiculous, 
and,  to  an  American,  particularly  so ; 
one  would  really  suppose  he  was 
something  more  than  human,  to  see 
the  crowds  that  run  to  see  him ;  they 
certainly  are  a  fine  looking  family,  and 
were  they  all  as  virtuous  and  amiable 
as  the  King  and  Queen  are  in  their 
private  characters,  their  example  might 


IIO  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

be  some  advantage  to  society;  but 
unfortunately  all  the  elder  Sons  are 
most  abandon'd  Men.  What  has  a 
nation  to  expect  when  the  present 
King  dies ;  what  can  be  looked  for  in 
a  Man  in  publick  life  when  his  private 
character  is  so  abandon'd  to  every 
vice  of  the  lowest  nature ;  how  often 
in  passing  the  Prince  of  Wales's  house, 
and  observing  the  vast  parade  and  ex- 
pense that  surround  him,  do  I  regret 
that  a  Man  so  looked  up  to,  and  in  so 
conspicuous  a  place,  should  not  have 
one  virtue  for  the  gazing  world  to 
imitate;  how  grateful  am  I  that  I  am 
not  a  Prince,  on  such  terms. 

We  are  again  fixed  in  our  own  lit- 
tle habitation  and  enjoy  all  that  do- 
mestic quiet  which  the  gay  world  in 
general  are  such  strangers  to;  how 
little  indeed  do  they  know  of  the  real 
pleasures  of  life,  who  murder  their 
time  in  dissipation  and  folly ;  the  ten- 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD       III 

der  relation  of  Husband,  and  the  indul- 
gence of  Maternal  affection,  are  noble 
and  delightful  sentiments  of  which 
they  are  robb'd —  sentiments  which 
are  not  only  productive  of  purest  joy 
—  but  such  as  will  fit  us  for  that  world, 
where  we  are  all  to  live  as  brethren 
of  one  family.  .  .  . 

Returned  from  a  jaunt  to  Dr.  Nich- 
oll's;  I  feel  much  enlivened  by  the 
ride,  and  highly  pleased  with  my  visit; 
they  are  so  polite,  and  yet  so  uncere- 
monious, that  you  cannot  help  feeling 
perfectly  at  home  with  them.  We 
met  there  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Snaby;  the 
latter  I  was  much  pleased  with,  but 
Dr.  Snaby's  appearance  is  very  much 
against  him ;  they  insist  upon  our  pay- 
ing them  a  visit,  this  day  fortnight, 
and  taking  our  little  boy  with  us ;  he 
has  enjoy'd  this  jaunt  so  much  and 
behaved  so  well  that  I  think,  for  his 
sake,  we  must  go.  ... 


I  12  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  Pinkney  are  at 
length  arrived,  and  I  trust  they  will 
soon  get  to  business  .  .  .  they  are 
all  very  good  looking  people,  and  do 
not  I  think  shame  their  country.  To- 
morrow we  are  all  to  meet  at  Mr. 
Bird's;  I  never  feel  so  much  at  home 
as  when  I  am  in  company  with  Mrs. 
King ;  she  is  really  a  sweet,  agreeable 
woman,  and  seems  disposed  to  be 
very  sociable;  we  shall  I  hope  pass 
many  evenings  together,  this  winter. 
As  Mr.  Pinkney  has  taken  a  house 
near  us,  I  expect  much  pleasure  from 
their  society.  I  am  really  delighted 
with  Mrs.  Snaby;  we  have  spent  four 
days  there  most  agreeably,  and  I  left 
her  with  much  regret;  they  do  not 
live  so  elegantly  as  Dr.  Nicholl,  but 
there  is  so  much  generosity  and  real 
goodness  of  heart  in  everything  she 
says  and  does,  that,  in  knowing,  you 
cannot  help  loving  her.  They  have  a 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       113 

family  of  five  children,  who  are  all 
kept  in  better  order,  without  any  ap- 
pearance of  authority,  than  any  family 
I  was  ever  in  —  in  short,  were  I  to  live 
long  near  Mrs.  Snaby,  I  should  love 
her  as  a  near  relative. 

Augwt  75,  7796.  Never  since  my 
connection  with  my  beloved  Mr.  Bay- 
ard have  I  spent  this  day  with  so  little 
satisfaction ;  it  has  even  reached  the 
most  pleasing  sensation  of  affection 
and  gratitude  my  heart  is  susceptible 
of;  but  Alas!  now  it  serves  only  to 
remind  me,  in  contemplating  my  own 
happiness,  that  which  my  darling 
Cousin  was,  this  time  last  year,  robb'd 
of — what  must  her  mind  endure  at 
this  time,  if  I  feel  so  much.  Never 
that  I  know  of  has  my  mind  been  so 
much  depressed.  I  was  on  the  bed 
almost  all  day;  my  poor  back  I  fear 
will  cause  me  much  trouble;  I  shall 
never  get  over  my  fall  at  Rose-Hill,  I 


114  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

am  afraid.  Mrs.  Marshall  came  in  the 
afternoon  and  took  tea  with  me  in  my 
chamber,  and  good  Aunt  Kitty  join'd 
us ;  this  enlivened  me  a  little,  and  I 
trust  1  shall  soon  be  better. 

September  18.  I  bless  God  that  I 
have  again  returned  home  in  better 
health  and  spirits  than  1  have  been  for 
some  time  past;  1  am  rejoiced  we  took 
the  Doctor's  advice  and  went  to  Rams- 
gate,  I  never  received  more  benefit 
from  any  jaunt  in  my  life ;  I  now  have 
some  hopes  of  getting  through  my 
troubles  in  safety,  and,  should  the  life 
of  my  dear  little  one  be  spared  to  me, 
I  can  never  cease  being  grateful. 

We  have  spent  a  very  pleasant  fort- 
night indeed  at  Mrs.  Townley's,  tho' 
the  family  is  conducted  with  so  little 
order  that  it  renders  everything  less 
agreeable,  than  it  would  otherwise  be. 
While  there  we  had  several  charming 
parties,  and,  among  the  most  agree- 
able, was  that  to  Dandelion,  to  the 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD        I  I  5 

public  breakfast;  it  was  in  such  a 
simple  rural  style,  that  I  was  very 
much  pleased  with  it,  and  think  such 
an  amusement  would  take  very  much 
in  America,  by  having  it  in  the  after- 
noon instead  of  the  morning.  It  is  a 
very  pretty  place  and  the  garden  in 
which  we  ate  breakfast  was  a  beauti- 
ful square  of  green ;  on  one  side  were 
the  tables,  and  on  the  other  a  large 
floor  for  dancing,  but  it  seems  that  it 
is  not  the  fashion,  this  year,  for  gen- 
teel people  to  dance,  and  there  are 
only  the  country  girls  who  exhibit; 
last  year  a  Lord's  daughter  led  the  first 
dance,  and  it  became,  from  that,  so 
much  the  ton  that  no  person  went 
without  dancing ;  such  slaves  are  the 
people  of  this  country  to  fashion  and 
the  opinion  of  the  world ;  1  would  not 
all  my  life  be  obliged  to  live  here  for 
anything  whatever;  I  pant  for  the 
simple  enjoyment  of  dear  America. 
While  at  Ramsgate  1  made  a  very 


Il6  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

pleasant  acquaintance  with  a  Mrs. 
Wolf,  who  was  on  a  visit  to  Mrs. 
Townley;  she  is  a  sweet,  pretty,  agree- 
able woman,  but  has  all  the  gaiety 
and  folly  of  a  fashionable  woman ;  she 
paints  constantly,  and  does  not  wish 
to  conceal  it. 

After  leaving  Ramsgate  we  had  a 
delightful  ride  home  and  found  our 
house  in  perfect  order;  Mouton  had 
cleaned  it  from  the  top  to  the  bottom. 
1  cannot  say  but  I  was  glad  at  getting 
home,  tho'  I  spent  my  time  so  agree- 
ably. I  trust  the  next  jaunt  I  take 
that  way,  will  be  to  embark  for  Amer- 
ica; I  cannot  be  perfectly  happy  till 
I  reach  those  peaceful  shores  —  how  I 
am  transported  when  I  think  of  meet- 
ing my  beloved  friends  again ;  Heaven 
protect  and  keep  us  all  till  that  happy 
period ;  and  I  think  no  earthly  thing 
shall  ever  tempt  me  to  leave  them 
again. 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD       I  17 

October.  I  have  been  much  fatigued 
this  day  or  two,  wishing  to  see  all 
my  American  friends.  I  have  excited 
myself  almost  too  much ;  yesterday, 
Mrs.  King  and  the  Commissioners, 
with  their  ladies,  djned  with  us,  & 
we  spent  a  very  agreeable  day ;  sur- 
rounded by  so  many  Americans  I  felt 
myself  almost  at  home.  I  anticipate 
much  pleasure  this  winter  with  them. 

March  25,  7797. 

When  all  thy  mercies,  oh  my  God, 

My  rising  soul  surveys, 
Transported  with  the  view  I  'm  lost 

In  wonder,  love,  and  praise. 

Rising  from  the  bed  of  sickness  my 
heart  is  fill'd  with  every  emotion  of 
love  and  gratitude  to  that  kind  Provi- 
dence who  has  raised  me  almost  from 
the  grave,  when  all  earthly  power  was 
thought  ineffectual.  Blessed  be  God 
for  the  life  which  was  given,  and  that 


I  I  8  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

which  was  spared,  oh  may  they  both 
be  devoted  to  thee. 

It  is  now  near  nine  weeks  since  my 
fever  left  me,  and  I  am  not  able  to 
walk  alone — shall  I  ever  again  have 
the  use  of  my  limbs  ? 

April  3.  Mrs.  Pinkney  call'd  upon 
me  this  morning,  and  took  me  a  short 
ride ;  I  bore  it  much  better  than  I  ex- 
pected, felt  a  little  giddy,  but  am  much 
better  since  I  laid  down.  I  fondly 
flatter  myself  that  I  shall  yet  live  to 
see  my  friends;  how  trifling  does 
everything  now  appear  but  the  pure 
and  rational  enjoyment  of  friendship 
and  affection. 

May  7.  Oh  that  the  solemnities  of 
this  day  may  be  remembered  through 
the  remainder  of  our  lives,  and  while 
we  thus  publicly  devote  ourselves  to 
our  God  may  we  recollect  that  our 
whole  private  conduct  must  corre- 
spond with  our  more  public  engage- 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       119 

ments,  and,  tho'  we  may  partake  still 
of  those  amusements  which  some 
may  call  the  follies  of  life,  may  our 
great  object  be  to  do  the  will  of  our 
heavenly  Father,  resigning  all  that  we 
have  or  wish  for  in  his  hands ;  how 
truly  happy  must  that  person  be  who 
can  say,  in  every  situation  or  change 
in  life,  "  Lord  not  as  1  will  but  thy 
will  be  done."  .  .  . 

June  75.  This  day  passed  very 
agreeably  at  Mrs.  Bird's,  with  Mr.  & 
Mrs.  Pinkney,  &  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lenox; 
we  took  a  Coach  together,  and  were 
much  gratified  in  the  pleasure  of  ask- 
ing many  questions  about  our  friends ; 
on  our  way  we  went  to  see  the  Seat 
of  Lord  Finley,  the  heir  of  which  is 
but  three  years  old;  it  is  a  superb 
place  indeed;  the  house  and  fixtures 
are  said  to  have  cost  three  hundred 
thousand  pounds;  the  velvet  curtain 
in  the  drawing  room  was  twenty  five 


I2O  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

guineas  a  yard ;  the  room  was  hung 
all  round  with  the  same,  with  a  broad 
panel  of  gold  around  it ;  the  grounds 
are  said  to  be  very  fine,  but  were  too 
damp  to  walk  much  on  them. 

July  /p.  We  have  at  length  deter- 
mined to  go  out  of  town,  and  have 
been  very  fortunate  in  getting  such 
good  lodgings ;  our  dear  little  one  has 
taken  the  whooping  cough;  I  fear.  I 
dread  the  consequence,  but  trust  in  a 
kind  Providence.  He  grows  a  sweet 
babe,  &  I  hope  will  be  spared  to  me. 

August  5.  Three  weeks  have  now 
elapsed  since  we  came  here ;  we  have 
passed  our  time  so  agreeably  that  I 
am  almost  induced  to  stay  another 
week;  but  I  am  told  it  begins  to  be 
very  sickly.  The  little  Child  James 
has  got  the  dysentery  very  bad,  and  I 
fear  mine  will  get  it ;  yesterday  I  went 
to  see  the  Nuns — they  are  of  the 
order  of  Benedict,  and  made  their 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD       121 

escape  from  France  with  their  lives 
only;  they  appear  to  be  perfectly 
happy,  and  say  that  they  would  not 
change  situation  with  any  person  in 
the  world ;  their  dress  is  very  curious, 
but  their  manners  perfectly  free  and 
agreeable;  they  show  many  pieces  of 
work,  which  every  one  who  goes  to 
see  them  makes  it  a  point  to  purchase 
— they  were  delighted  with  Lewis 
speaking  French. 

August  16.  This  day  we  came  to 
Town  in  hopes  the  change  of  air 
would  do  our  dear  little  one  some 
good;  but  I  think  he  has  coughed 
much  more  last  night  than  ever.  I 
have  always  dreaded  this  very  much. 

Alas !  my  darling  has  been  very  ill ; 
I  wish  we  had  stayed  out  at  Hammer- 
smith. I  fear  we  are  doom'd  to  have 
an  only  Child ;  but  I  must  leave  all  to  a 
merciful  Providence,  tho'  I  cannot  help 
feeling  very  anxious ;  he  looks  so  ill. 


122  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

September  10.  Oh  cruel  recollec- 
tion !  this  day  my  beloved  Child  would 
have  been  nine  months  old,  the  age 
that  I  fondly  flattered  myself  he  would 
have  run  alone  —  but  alas!  how  often 
does  a  mysterious  Providence  cut  off 
our  hopes  and  blast  our  most  favorite 
plans;  he  was  a  promising  child  as 
ever  lived ;  but  hard  as  the  trial  was, 
last  Saturday  he  was  committed  to  the 
silent  grave;  Sunday  I  thought  him 
quite  well,  but  Monday  morning  I  per- 
ceived a  change  for  the  worse,  and 
Tuesday  evening  he  rejected  all  food, 
and  I  had  no  hope.  Good  little  Aunt 
Kitty  was  with  me  all  night,  and,  at 
four  in  the  morning,  the  dear  little 
lamb  breathed  his  last.  At  this  ago- 
nizing moment,  after  the  first  shock 
was  over,  1  consoled  myself  with  the 
hope  that  the  spirit  of  my  beloved 
Mother  had  received  the  little  inno- 
cent, and  was  hovering  round  the 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       123 

cradle  at  the  same  moment,  that  I  was 
hanging  o'er  the  remains  of  my  Dar- 
ling; it  was  a  most  consolatory  Idea, 
and  could  I  have  realized  it,  I  think  I 
should  have  been  happy;  this  is  the 
third  child  that  I  trust  is  enjoying  the 
blessings  of  a  future  state  with  her, 
and  are  realizing  the  dream  I  had  at 
Elizabeth-Town.  .  .  . 

September  20.  This  evening  we 
reached  good  Doct.  Gordon's,  were 
received  with  great  kindness.  After 
enquiring  after  my  health  in  general, 
Mrs.  Gordon  said  God  has  mingled 
judgments  with  mercies  my  Dr.  Mrs. 
Bayard,  and  I  trust  we  shall  be 
properly  impressed  with  both;  the 
good  old  lady  said  all  she  could  to 
console,  and,  after  prayers  in  the 
evening,  I  felt  more  composed  than 
usual.  .  .  . 

22.  This  morning  we  took  leave 
of  Doctor  and  Mrs.  Gordon,  and  pro- 


124  THE  JOURNAL  OF 


ceeded  on  our  journey,  it  was  a  re- 
markably fine  day,  and  we  had  a  very 
pleasant  ride.  I  should  have  enjoyed 
it  very  much,  had  not  my  mind  been 
so  much  depressed;  I  cannot  help 
regretting  that  we  did  not  take  the 
journey  sooner,  perhaps  I  say  it  might 
have  been  of  service  to  my  little  dar- 
ling, but  alas!  it  is  too  late;  he  is 
taken  from  me,  and  sheltered  from  all 
the  ills  of  life.  .  .  . 

We  reached  Market-Harborough, 
about  seven ;  took  our  tea  and  retired, 
but  had  a  wretched  night,  the  worst  bed 
in  England,  at  the  " Three  Crowns." 
The  next  morning,  another  fine  day, 
we  reached  Leicester,  about  noon; 
walked  through  the  markets,  found 
them  well  fill'd  with  everything  good ; 
but  the  mutton  and  lamb  remarkably 
fine;  return'd  to  the  inn  and  order' d 
lamb  chops,  but  they  had  not  any  in 
the  house ;  we  enquired  if  there  were 


MARTHA   PINTARD  BAYARD       125 

any  curiosities  to  be  seen,  and  were 
directed  to  a  Miss  Linwood's,  where 
we  were  more  highly  gratified  than 
I  can  express ;  her  work  is  on  canvas 
with  worsted,  the  size  of  life,  and  sur- 
passes any  painting  I  ever  saw;  she 
says  she  has  been  eleven  years  mak- 
ing the  pieces,  and,  next  winter,  means 
to  exhibit  them  in  London,  &  no 
doubt  will  make  a  fortune.  .  .  . 

Saturday  night,  slept  at  Loughbor- 
ough,  and  went  to  meeting  in  the  morn- 
ing; a  tolerable  discourse,  and  set  out, 
immediately  after  service,  in  hopes  of 
reaching  Nottingham  in  time  for  the 
afternoon  services,  but  were  disap- 
pointed ;  went  in  the  evening  in  search 
of  a  meeting  and  got  into  as  ranting  a 
Methodist  as  I  ever  heard.  The  next 
morning  we  arose  and  set  out  with 
a  Mr.  Stathor  (whom  we  had  a  letter 
to)  to  look  at  the  manufactory;  the 
first  he  showed  us  was  spooling  the 


126  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

silk,  at  which  twelve  hundred  Chil- 
dren were  employ'd  —  after  this,  in  an- 
other place,  we  saw  the  weaving,  and 
in  every  state ;  the  silk,  just  as  it  comes 
from  China,  is  perfectly  white,  and  that 
from  Bengal  is  a  bright  yellow;  we 
then  looked  at  the  different  kinds  of 
stockings  and  pick'd  out  what  we 
wanted  .  .  .  the  patternet  work  is 
very  curious ;  the  lace  is  all  worked  in 
frames  with  a  needle,  and  afterwards 
cut  in  strips ;  the  patterns  for  Cloaks 
are  done  in  the  same  way.  .  .  . 

After  this  we  went  up  to  look  at 
the  Castle,  which  belongs  to  the  Duke 
of  Portland,  tho*  he  has  not  lived  there 
these  seven  years;  the  house  com- 
mands a  very  extensive  and  beautiful 
prospect,  but  the  inside  of  it  is  not 
worth  looking  at,  after  what  we  have 
seen  before;  the  Castle  stands  on  a 
rock,  through  which  is  a  hole  hewn 
down  to  the  bottom,  which  is  called 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD        127 

Motine  hole ;  but  is  generally  supposed 
to  have  been  hewn  out  of  this  rock 
by  the  ancient  Britons,  before  the  land- 
ing of  the  Romans ;  after  viewing  this 
we  returned  to  Mr.  Stathor's  and  par- 
took of  a  family  dinner,  and  proceeded 
on  to  Derby.  I  trust  we  shall  sleep 
better  than  we  did  last  night,  tho'  the 
bed  does  not  look  as  well  as  I  could 
wish ;  the  landlady  is  very  fat  and  very 
civil,  we  have  had  a  good  dish  of  tea, 
and  are  now  about  retiring. 

Tuesday.  We  had  a  much  better 
night  than  I  expected,  and,  thanks  to 
a  kind  Providence,  we  are  all  well  this 
morning — after  breakfast,  we  set  out 
for  Derby,  &  were  engaged  all  day  in 
looking  about  the  Town,  at  the  dif- 
ferent manufactories;  the  Derbyshire 
spar  was  the  first  that  drew  our  at- 
tention, we  priced  many  things  and 
found  them  quite  as  high  as  in  Lon- 
don; the  person  who  sold  them  was 


128  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

very  civil,  and  took  us  to  see  the  peo- 
ple at  work ;  there  we  saw  the  spar 
as  it  is  dug  first  out  of  the  ground, 
and,  in  another  room,  where  they 
were  making  it  up,  this  was  highly 
gratifying;  we  bought  a  few  things 
merely  to  pay  the  Man  for  the  trouble, 
and  then  went  on  to  the  great  China 
manufactory,  and  saw  the  whole  pro- 
cess of  making  everything  in  that  way ; 
on  our  way  to  that  we  stopp'd  and 
looked  at  the  silk  machinery,  which 
was  on  a  larger  scale  than  I  had  ever 
seen;  five  hundred  hands  were  en- 
gaged in  attendance,  and  three  hun- 
dred Children  employed,  who  earn 
every  day  from  six  to  ten  pence  a 
day ;  delightful  sight  this  was  to  see 
so  manylittlelcreatures  taught,  so  early, 
to  earn  their  bread  in  an  honest  & 
industrious  manner.  ...  In  the 
afternoon  we  went  on  to  Matlock, 
but  on  the  road  stopp'd  to  see  Lord 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD       129 

Scarsdale's.  We  entered  it  through 
the  lodge,  which  was  very  fine;  but 
the  house  did  not  appear  so  grand  as 
many  we  had  seen,  but,  to  our  great 
surprise,  it  far  surpassed  everything — 
the  lower  entrance  into  the  servants' 
hall,  which  is  as  large  as  the  whole 
of  any  house  in  America,  was  fine; 
but  from  this  we  were  introduced 
into  the  grandest  apartment  I  ever 
saw,  which  she  call'd  the  Hall ;  it  was 
an  amazing  large  room,  the  whole 
width  of  the  house,  and  communicated 
with  each  corner ;  about  two  or  three 
feet  all  round,  the  Hall  was  supported 
by  twenty  grand  Pillars  of  Derbyshire 
spar,  fluted;  —  the  ceiling  &  walls 
were  ornamented  with  medallions  rep- 
resenting different  things,  and  an  ele- 
gant sky-light  in  the  middle  showed 
every  painting  to  the  best  advantage ; 
from  this  we  were  led  into  the  music 
room,  at  one  end  of  which  was  an 


I  30  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

elegant  organ,  and  at  the  other  a 
grand  piano,  and  several  Italian  pic- 
tures; but  in  the  next  room,  which 
was  the  drawing-room,  the  paintings 
were  very  elegant,  the  furniture  blue 
silk  damask  and  the  chairs  white  & 
Gold,  grand  sophas,  the  arms  of 
which  were  supported  by  Sphynxes 
highly  gilt; — from  this  we  went  into 
the  library  which  was  far  inferior  to 
several  we  had  seen,  but  the  saloon 
surpassed  any  room  for  novelty  and 
elegance  that  can  be  conceived;  it  is 
a  large  octagon  room,  with  a  sky- 
light, the  ceiling  of  which  was  made 
with  white  stucco  gilt,  in  the  form 
of  roses ;  this  was  elegantly  adorned 
with  medallions,  the  furniture  white 
&  gold,  with  eight  sophas, — this  ap- 
pears to  have  been  the  centre  of  the 
house,  as  a  door  opened  in  almost 
every  octagon;  from  this  we  were 
introduced  in  my  Lady's  bed-chamber 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD       13! 

&  dressing-room ;  the  bed  was  blue, 
with  gold  fringe  and  the  spread  of 
the  same,  the  bedstead  was  mahogany, 
the  posts  highly  gilt  in  flowers,  very 
thick  and  tapering  to  the  top;  there 
were  two  dressing-rooms  joining,  one 
for  the  Lady  and  the  other  for  the 
gentleman — the  ornaments  on  the 
toilet  were  all  solid  gold ;  .  .  .  from 
this  we  went  into  the  dining-room, 
where  was  an  elegant  side-board  of 
Plate,  with  several  other  ornaments; 
before  the  fire  stood  a  plate- warmer,  in 
the  form  of  an  urn,  made  of  copper, 
but  so  highly  gilt  that  it  had  a  su- 
perb appearance ;  she  led  us  through 
many  other  apartments  too  tedious 
to  mention,  but,  in  all  the  building, 
she  told  us  there  were  seventy-four 
rooms,  thirty  six  in  the  centre,  and 
forty  two  in  the  two  pavilions.  We 
paid  the  old  Lady  her  crown,  and 
came  away  highly  gratified,  the  house 


132  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  road,  the 
grounds  well  cultivated,  but  nothing 
more,  many  deer  and  sheep  grazing, 
and  a  pretty  fall  of  water  in  view  of 
the  house,  from  which  runs  a  clear 
stream  through  all  the  grounds.  The 
owner  of  this  place  must  have  forty 
or  fifty  thousand  per  annum  to  sup- 
port this  style ;  happy  indeed  would 
he  be  did  he  know  how  to  lay  it  out 
to  some  better  purpose. 

We  reached  Matlock  about  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  where  the 
Ladies  were  all  assembled  in  a  long 
room,  where  they  generally  drink  tea. 
I  felt  a  little  awkward  at  first,  going 
in  after  traveling  all  day  and  seeing 
above  twenty  Ladies  very  smartly 
dress'd,  and  no  person  to  receive  me 
in  particular;  however  I  took  a  seat 
and  soon  got  into  conversation;  in 
about  an  hour  tea  was  call'd  for — and 
I  soon  found  each  party  had  their  own 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD       133 

table ;  I  then  turned  to  the  lady  who 
sat  next  me  and  asked  her  if  she 
would  allow  us  to  join  her  party, 
which  she  very  politely  assented  to, 
and  we  were  very  sociable  the  rest  of 
the  evening;  after  tea  the  gentlemen 
and  Ladies  all  went  to  Cards;  they 
were  polite  enough  to  ask  me,  but 
1  declined;  they  play'd  about  two 
hours,  and  at  nine  were  call'd  to  sup- 
per; and  a  very  neat,  genteel  supper 
it  was,  a  variety  of  everything  that 
was  good,  and  this  all  with  atten- 
dance and  music  for  a  shilling — they 
pay  every  meal ;  after  supper  they  pro- 
posed dancing,  and  danced,  I  am  told, 
till  near  one,  as  I  left  them  before  they 
began.  .  .  . 

The  next  morning  we  came  down 
about  nine,  and  found  them  eating 
breakfast,  in  the  same  small  parties 
that  they  drank  tea;  I  call'd  for  coffee 
for  three,  and  we  made  a  comfortable 


134  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

meal;  after  this  we  walked  out,  and 
found  it  one  of  the  most  romantic 
places  we  had  seen  in  England;  we 
call'd  at  several  shops  of  the  spar 
and  priced  it.  I  bought  several  little 
things,  and  took  a  ride;  returned  to 
dinner,  and  then  set  out  on  our  way 
to  Sheffield.  We  reached  Bakewell 
about  seven ;  here  we  had  a  very  bad 
night,  but  excellent  fare  in  the  morn- 
ing; we  went  to  look  at  Mr.  Watson's 
collections  of  natural  curiosities ;  we 
had  a  very  tedious  ride  to  Sheffield, 
over  high  hills  and  bad  roads,  but  we 
got  there  in  time  for  a  good  dinner. 
After  dinner  we  went  over  to  Rother- 
ham,  to  see  Mr.  Walker's  famous  iron 
works,  which  are  carried  on  to  a  great 
extent.  This  gentleman  was  good 
enough  to  go  over  all  the  works  with 
us,  and  said  himself  that  he  employ'd 
six  hundred  men  constantly.  After 
going  through  all  the  great  works,  he 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       135 

show'd  us  into  the  place  where  they 
were  tinning  the  large  sheets  of  iron 
which  we  had  seen  them  roll,  and  I 
was  much  surprised,  on  enquiring, 
that  the  block  tin,  that  1  thought  was 
always  solid,  was  only  put  in  the  tin 
a  few  times  more  than  the  common 
tin,  which  makes  it  stronger.  We  had 
a  pretty  good  night  at  Rotherham, 
and  returned  to  Sheffield  to  dinner. 
Here  we  went  to  look  over  all  the 
manufactories  of  Scissan's  Plate  &c, 
and  found  the  people  very  civil; 
ordered  many  things  from  each  place; 
spent  one  night  pretty  comfortably  at 
the  Angel  Inn,  and  got  to  Castleton 
the  next  night.  Sunday  morning, 
finding  that  there  was  no  worship  in 
the  Church,  we  went  with  a  Guide  to 
see  the  famous  Peak's-Hole;  and  such 
a  place  I  never  was  in  before,  and  I 
never  shall  venture  in  such  another; 
I  am  very  much  afraid  that  we  shall 


136  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

all  take  cold  from  seeing  this  great 
curiosity.  Perfectly  satisfied  with 
Peak's-Hole,  we  determin'd  to  go  on 
without  seeing  Paul's,  and  accordingly 
reached  Bustleton  at  three  o'clock. 
Just  as  they  were  all  seated  at  dinner 
we  joined  them,  and  were  pleased  to 
find  the  company  more  sociable  than 
at  Matlock — indeed  it  is  on  a  much 
better  plan  than  Matlock  altogether; 
the  Crescent  is  a  fine  range  of  build- 
ings, appropriated  strictly  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  strangers,  built  by  the 
Duke  of  Devonshire,  and  is  said  to 
have  cost  him  one  hundred  thousand 
pounds;  the  stables  are  as  fine  as  a 
gentleman's  seat.  .  .  . 

Manchester  we  reached  late  in  the 
evening,  and  could  not  go  out  till  the 
morning.  We  were  much  gratified 
in  seeing  them  weave  tape,  binding, 
&c ;  but,  above  all,  I  was  surprised  to 
see  the  velvets  pass  the  red  hot  iron, 


MARTHA    PINTARD    BAYARD        137 

and  the  Man  who  was  doing  it  told 
me  that  it  was  obliged  to  go  through 
that  operation  fifty  times  before  it  was 
finished,  and  that  all  fine  muslin  and 
prints  passed  over  it  also ;  the  cutting 
of  the  velvet  is  very  curious  also ;  it  is 
done  by  women  with  a  very  sharp 
steel,  like  a  lancet  fixed  on  a  long 
stick,  and  cut  single. 

The  day  after  we  got  to  Manchester 
it  cleared  and  was  very  fine,  which 
enabled  us  to  walk  about;  having 
seen  everything  that  was  worth  no- 
tice, we  set  out  on  our  way  to  Bir- 
mingham, in  the  afternoon;  reach'd 
Congleton  that  night,  had  an  indiffer- 
ent bed,  and  was  much  disturbed  by 
the  officers;  the  next  night  slept  at 
Penkridge,  had  a  very  good  night's 
rest,  and  reached  Birmingham  the  next 
evening;  let  Miss  Kirtland  know  we 
were  in  town ;  she  call'd  on  us  the 
next  morning,  and  we  drank  tea  with 


138  THE  JOURNAL   OF 

her  in  the  afternoon.  Here  I  was  not 
gratified  by  anything,  except  Mr.  Boul- 
tin's  machine  for  stamping  coin;  the 
day  after  we  reach'd  Birmingham,  we 
went  about  twelve  miles  from  there, 
to  see  Hagley,  Lord  Littleton's  place, 
and  Shenston's.  They  were  both  beau- 
tiful, but  Shenston's  much  finer  than 
the  other;  on  our  return  to  Birming- 
ham, I  was  very  much  fatigued,  and 
went  to  bed  early;  just  as  I  got  un- 
dress'd,  Mr.  Bayard  came  up  stairs 
and  told  me  Mr.  &  Mrs.  King,  Mr.  & 
Mrs.  Pinkney  and  Mr.  &  Mrs.  Gore 
were  all  in  the  same  inn  with  us ;  we 
went  down  and  sat  an  hour  with  them, 
and  Mrs.  King  insisted  upon  our  stay- 
ing the  next  day  and  dining  together, 
which  we  agreed  to,  and, spent  a  very 
pleasant  day,  and  yesterday  separated, 
and  got  to  Warwick  last  night.  Were 
much  pleas'd  at  seeing  Warwick 
Castle,  and  Guy  Earl  of  Warwick's 


MARTHA    PINTARD   BAYARD       139 

porridge-pot,  his  armour,  &c.,  &c. ; 
and  this  evening  we  reach'd  Banbury ; 
but  I  forgot  to  mention  that,  on  our 
way,  this  morning,  we  stopp'd  at  the 
chapel  to  see  Shakspeare's  tomb ;  and 
we  saw  a  large  place,  with  a  quantity 
of  bones  over  which  the  old  man 
used  to  pray,  on  All-Saints'  day,  also 
got  some  little  presents. 

The  next  morning,  our  horses  being 
quite  unable  to  go  any  further,  we 
determined  to  take  post-horses  and 
proceed  on  our  journey.  Very  for- 
tunately, by  this  means,  we  met  our 
party  at  Buckingham,  and  went,  in 
company  with  them,  to  see  Stow  the 
most  famous  seat  in  England,  and 
found  it  the  most  elegant  and  most 
superb  we  had  ever  seen;  there  are 
several  hundred  acres  of  ground,  and 
all  laid  out  with  taste  and  expense; 
the  house  is  nine  hundred  feet  long, 
and  is  furnished  with  utmost  taste  and 


140  THE  JOURNAL  OF 

elegance;  the  room  I  most  admired 
was  furnished  with  salmon-colour'd 
silk,  and  hung  with  the  same.  We 
returned  and  dined  at  the  inn,  and 
again  met  our  friends  at  the  Gorge 
inn,  joined  parties  and  supp'd  &  ate 
breakfast  with  them.  In  the  morning, 
having  taken  fresh  horses,  we  left 
them  on  the  road,  and  got  home 
about  three  o'clock ;  but,  oh  my  heart ! 
how  did  the  sight  of  all  around  me 
pain  my  soul  —  everything  but  served 
to  remind  me  of  a  loss  which  it  will 
take  a  long  time  to  make  me  forget 
—  alas!  how  uncertain  is  every  enjoy- 
ment, and  how  fraught  with  care  is 
every  comfort;  I  pray  for  resignation, 
merciful  father,  to  thy  will.  .  .  . 

November  i,  7797.  I  should  be  very 
lonesome  now  were  it  not  for  the 
kind  attentions  of  good  little  Aunt 
Kitty;  she  endeavours  to  divert  my 
mind  and  to  draw  me  into  company 


MARTHA   PINTARD   BAYARD       141 

again;  but  alas!  how  little  relish 
have  I  for  any  enjoyment.  Were  it 
not  for  the  hope  of  soon  returning 
home,  I  fear  I  should  sink  under  this 
affliction.  .  .  . 

December  2.  This  day  last  year, 
ah !  what  a  happy  day  was  it  to  again 
be  the  mother  of  another  Son,1  who 
I  fondly  flattered  myself  would  have 
lived  to  cheer  the  days  of  our  exile  and 
render  them  less  tedious,  but  alas !  be- 
fore he  had  reached  his  ninth  month, 
that  period  which  I  had  anticipated 
with  the  most  heartfelt  pleasure — he 
was  taken  from  me  by  the  hand  of 
death,  and  shelter'd  from  all  the  evils 
of  life.  .  .  . 

i  This  little  child  was  buried  in  Bunhill  Fields, 
near  the  grave  of  Dr.  Isaac  Watts. 
In  1798  Mrs.  Bayard  returned  to  her  native  land. 


HOME  USE 

CIRCULATION  DEPARTMENT 
MAIN  LIBRARY 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 
1-month  loans  may  be  renewed  by  calling  642-3405. 
6-month  loans  may  be  recharged  by  bringing  books 

to  Circulation  Desk. 
Renewals  and  recharges  may  be  made  4  days  prior 

to  due  date. 

ALL  BOOKS  ARE  SUBJECT  TO  RECALL  7  DAYS 
AFTER  DATE  CHECKED  OUT. 


,,        MARb     19/b 

SENT  ON  HI 


OTB.  cm. 


APR  0  9 1993 


, 


MAR  1 


LD21 — A-40m -8/75  General  Library 

(S773.7L)  University  of  California 

Berkeley 


YB  2T57S 

U.C.BERKELEY  LIBRARIES 


925711 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


